The Costume Diva

Whatever shall I wear?

2011-06-15T22:14:00.002-04:00

While I have been slowly chugging away on my sewing projects, I have admitted defeat on my Under The Redcoat project. I just don't have time to get it finished. I might get my stays done in time, but there's no way I can get a dress patterned, sewn, and trimmed (with matching hat) in 1.5 weeks. I need to win the lottery so I can devote myself full time to my costumes! :)
My half-boned stays are coming along quite nicely. I have sewn in the lining (I'm loving the blue gingham!!) and gotten the edges partially bound.The top edge is complete, but as these pins prove, I'm still working on finishing up the bottom half. It is, of course, the more difficult half thanks to all the tabs.I did get the eyelets all nicely hand-bound. I found some beautiful silk embroidery floss when I was in Charlottesville a few weeks ago and used it. I still prefer silk buttonhole twist, but since that's not always available the embroidery thread was a nice substitute.Another reason progress has slowed down a bit on my projects is because I'm working on a commission. It's a fully boned pair of 18th century stays. I'll post pictures once I'm finished, but here's a sneak peak. Isn't the color fabulous? I love the gold silk.
I ordered 50 yards of plastic boning for the commission stays. I was really worried that I hadn't ordered enough...but here's what was left in the end. Talk about ordering just the right amount!

Bound Eyelets

2011-06-02T19:04:00.004-04:00

I hate doing posts without any photos, but I thought I'd mention that I've finished hand-binding the eyelets on my stays. I managed to find some silk embroidery thread in Charlottesville and used it to bind the eyelets. They turned out very nicely, but since it's white on white I had a really hard time taking a photo of the eyelets.

The lining is pinned down, and tonight I'll start binding the edges. We're in the homestretch.

In other news...I don't think I have a prayer of getting any of the outfits that I'd wanted to complete for Under the Redcoat and Gettysburg. I'll have this weekend to work on them, but since I don't want to rush and mess up, I'd rather take my time and wear them later.

18 Century Stays Progress

2011-05-30T21:08:00.001-04:00

I'm working on a commission (also an 18th century pair of stays...I'll post photos when I'm done), so progress on my own half-boned stays has been slightly slower than normal. However, I got all the boning channels sewn in... ...added the boning (I'm using German Plastic boning), tacked down the inner seams... ...and assembled the lining. All that remains is to hand bind the eyelets raw edges (this is most time and labor intense part of 18th century stays for me).

Don't you love the lining I picked out?! Burnley & Trowbridge had a lovely gingham/checked blue linen. I couldn't stick with plain white both inside and out (boring!), and since plaid linings are period, I decided to go for it.

Late 18th Century Stays

2011-05-25T19:04:00.000-04:00

So, like much of my costume wardrobe, my 18th century stays aren't fitting so well these days, so I decided to make a new pair. I've never tried making a later 18th century pair of stays, so I thought I'd try out JP Ryan's new half-boned stays' pattern (pictured above).

Unlike her fully boned stays, I've experienced some fitting issues with this pattern. I usually really like JP Ryan's patterns, but I've had some frustrations with this pattern. It might have actually been the same amount of work to scale up a pattern from one of my costume books. I had to redraft the pattern, shortening it by 2.5 inches, adding 4 inches in the bust, and shrinking the waist by 2 inches. I had to make two mock-ups - my edits made the pattern the correct proportions, but it was too large. Here's my first mock-up (clearly too big)
I forget sometimes that I'm very squishy. Here's the second mock-up...apparently still too big, even if my dress dummy fooled me:Luckily, I didn't want to make these stays meet in the back as the pattern is designed to do, so I just took the excess out of the final back pattern piece and was back in business.
Now I have to redraw all of the boning lines. This was painstaking work that took over an hour to get right, so I'm slightly frustrated. I'm also thinking the straps might be too short, but that's an easy fix and I have enough left-over fabric. You can barely make out the penciled in boning lines in the photo below:

Civil War Cage Crinoline

2011-05-21T19:03:00.003-04:00

While I already own a hoopskirt, it's made as a petticoat with sewn-in channels. It's very similar to this cage crinoline at the MET. All the fabric (in addition to the steel) is surprisingly heavy. It's from the popular Simplicity pattern, but it's too long and is constantly scraping the ground. I could fix that, but it's also very large and not really designed for day-wear. I decided I'd like a new set of hoops, and wanted to try making a cage crinoline, like this one at the Victoria & Albert museum:
I purchased a fairly straight forward kit from Originals By Kay, and was able to put it together in an afternoon with my husband's help (I really don't like having to use the bolt cutters to cut the hoop wire). My dress dummy was a lot of help. It seems like period crinolines had many more hoops than modern reproductions, but our hoop steel is very different than what they had available during the civil war.The hoops are 108 inches in circumference, and are not an exact bell shape since they are ever-so-slightly larger in the back. That way my skirts will be more voluminous in the back. I would definitely recommend Kay's kit for convenience and ease of construction. There wasn't enough tape in the kit for me to make my waistband, but I have enough ribbon/tape lying around that it wasn't a problem. I admit I'm curious about the Truly Victorian hoop pattern since it includes a bag hem (you're less likely to put a foot through a hoop). Has anyone tried out the two different hoop styles?

I have a petticoat that will work with these hoops, though I know I should really make a new pair that:

A) Fits better
B) Has a flounce
C) Is neither too short nor too long

Completed Civil War Corset

2011-05-19T19:03:00.002-04:00

Here's a finished shot of me in my new Civil War corset. It'll do the job so I can move forward with my Gettysburg dress, but it's a bit too small...I can't even post the back shot because I'm a bit embarrassed by the fit. In hindsight, I definitely should size up Simplicity 7215. It was my favorite corset, and I hope to fit back into it someday.

A New Civil War Corset

2011-04-25T21:53:00.007-04:00

I have grand plans for this summer! I'm hoping to attend Under the Red Coat in Williamsburg and the Gettysburg reenactment. I have plans for the costumes I'd like to make, but I feel like posting my intentions and project plans would jinx getting them completed in time. Since none of my costumes are currently fitting, this means I need to start from the inside out. So first up: a new civil war corset.I decided to try Simplicity 2890 because it has some extended sizes and I wouldn't have to size-up the pattern. I made pretty quick progress this weekend, and have completely assembled the corset, added the gores, and sewn in the boning tape. Below is a shot of the completed bust gores:I'm over half way done setting in the grommets, but had to take a break since I bruised my hands with my eyelet tool.

I have to say that so far I'm not that impressed with this pattern. I ordered boning according to the back of the pattern, but they don't fit (they're about 2-3 inches too short). I also don't like that this is a single-layer corset, and that the gores are one-size-fits all instead of different cup sizes. I've now tried all three Simplicity corset patterns (the current pattern, Martha McCain's 5726, and Martha McCain's 7215). My pink satin corset from Simplicity 7215 remains my favorite (I may have to redraft the pattern and make it again).

18th Century Wigs

2011-04-20T19:00:00.000-04:00

Wigs (or 18th century hair, if you're blessed with hair long enough) has always fascinated me. I remember reading about La Belle Poule (the ship-in-the-hair style) when I was a kid and marveling at how silly it was. Now, of course, I'm obsessed enough with the 18th century that I'd actually give it a try. :) I can't remember where I came across this 18th century illustration of hair styles, but I love that each one has its own name:

I was thrilled to make it to the Wig Maker during my latest trip to Williamsburg. Check out their new Facebook page. They're not always open on the weekend when I tend to visit, so it was a treat. The wig maker was restyling the governor's wife's wig. It still blows my mind to think that ladies would shave their heads if they wanted to wear a wig. I wonder how common ladies wigs were vs. getting your own hair styled. Does anyone know?

There were all sorts of new wigs on display. In the past, it seems like the store generally had men's wigs on display, but this time there were tons of ladies' wigs. This one is actually a man's wig (can you imagine what a dandy a guy would have to be to wear one of these?). It makes me think of the hairstylist Leonard in Sophia Coppola's "Marie Antoinette."

I LOVE this wig, because it's my hair color and has peacock feathers. I have no idea what's up with the scissors. I think maybe they were on the shelf in the background (not IN the wig), but I didn't notice it when I took the photo.

I love the one on the left. The pretty pin curls toward the top are my favorite.

And here's my favorite. What's not to love? It's the powdery ideal of the 1770's and doesn't look anything like the horrid white wigs costume shops sell (I do realize comparing the quality between costume wigs and the Williamsburg Wig Maker is like comparing a Fiat to a Ferrari, but that's what came to mind).
Check out all the little side curls piled one on top of the other! That, combined with the twisted chignon and feathers, it's just to die for!! I want one. I'm not very talented when it comes to hairstyling, or I'd have already bought a wig and tried my own hand at creating an 18th century poof. Kendra has a great tutorial on how to style a 1770's wig, and Abby of "Stay-ing Alive" has a great 1780's hedgehog tutorial if you are more talented at hairstyling.

I'm hoping that there will be a wig workshop in my future or that I cajole my way onto the wigmaker's wait list.

18th Century Calash Bonnet

2011-04-18T19:00:00.001-04:00

Today I'm going to review my Calash bonnet project from the Burnley & Trowbridge workshop. These somewhat goofy looking bonnets served a fairly practical purpose - to protect a lady's hairstyle from the elements. I found a few period illustrations of a Calash showing enormous examples, most likely from the 1770's:

Here a smaller portrayal of a Calash bonnet, also from the 1770's (the portrait is titled "Miss Crewe"):

This is most likely a satire portrayal of a calash, but I like that it's a more rounded shape consistent with the hairstyles of the 1780s. It also shows off the lead string or ribbon that's sewn onto the calash. The bonnets are very lightweight, and a lady could hold onto the ribbon to keep the calash from blowing off. Janea told us that contemporary lady magazines frowned upon young ladies who snapped their calash ribbons in order to be noticed by passing gentlemen. Shocking!

Here's Emma modeling the milliner shop's calash that's based off the Spruce Sportsman. The reeds in that sucker are 40 inches long!

Here's my calash in progress. I chose a green silk with pink lining, similar to this calash at the MET. I worked all the channels by hand with silk thread. This is one of the few projects I've made that is 100% hand-sewn.Here's the finished product from the side:Here's a nice shot of the contrasting lining. I can't find the reference, but apparently this color combination was compared to a blushing rose. Although they appear slightly cumbersome to the modern eye, apparently calashes could be very romantic (or coquetish...if you go around snapping your ribbons) accessories.And here's the back, finished off with a small ruffle and bow.And here I am with the obligatory mirror shot. Don't I look period correct with my shorn hair, glasses, and red t-shirt? I just didn't have the energy to dig out my wig. But, you can see that I have plenty of room for a towering coiffure.

18th Century Mitts

2011-04-13T19:33:00.001-04:00

Next up from my weekend in Williamsburg: mitts!! I've always wanted a very pretty pair of mitts, but I could only find wool/linen mitts that were cut too big or too small. This way, I got to make a fancy set of mitts fit to me.
Here's an example of 18th century mitts (the painting is called the Lady with the Veil). I love the raspberry changeable silk with the blue lining. Isn't that a fantastic color combination?! It wouldn't work with any of my dresses, so I decided to go with something else. There's something very coquettish, though, about having the tip of the mitt flipped back to reveal the lining.Here was the inspiration for my project - a pair of silk mitts from Colonial Williamsburg's collection. It helped that there was a reproduction of these available to look at during the workshop. I made a simpler version of this pair: I ditched the inner arm cut-out, green accents instead of blue, no leather lining, and less embroidery because I just don't have the patience.Here I am getting the muslin for my mitt pattern fitted. There definitely seemed to be an art in getting things to fit properly. Sarah, from the Mantua Maker shop, was a pro and tugging, tucking, and otherwise getting the uncooperative fabric to conform to my hand. Here's a shot of the finished product (ignore the non-period fingernails). The fabric is a duchess silk satin. I saw it and immediately fell in love (I was actually holding another bolt of fabric for my mitts when I spotted this fabric underneath a pile on the fabric table). Little did a know that there's a story behind the fabric: the satin was a remnant from Vera Wang! Yes folks, I made a pair of mitts out of the fabric Vera Wang uses in her $5,000-and-up wedding dresses. Pretty neat, huh? Here's a shot with the tips flipped back to show off the sea-green silk taffeta lining.

I decided to finish the edge of my mitts the same in the same manner as my inspiration gloves: a herringbone embroidery stitch up the side in silk embroidery thread.

This is what it looks like when I'm wearing it. The camera didn't do a great job of capturing the stitches, but you get the gist.

18th Century Muffs

2011-04-08T07:00:00.002-04:00

Ah...muffs. What an elegant accessory! I can't imagine why they fell out of style. Especially the very clever 19th century muffs that had hidden pockets inside. Apparently 18th century muffs did not commonly have pockets. Fur and feathers seem to be most commonly depicted in 18th century fashion plates. The period examples I have found, however, are not dominated by fur/feathers (though the MET has one in its collection). Maybe they were just considered more fashionable/desirable but were more expensive? Anyone know? Here's a 1770's French fashion plate from Galleries des Modes et Costumes Francais showing what appears to be a fur muff:

The Museum of Fine Arts in Boston has several muffs in its collection, including some very pretty silk muffs. The one below features gorgeous silk satin and a portrait medallion. Portrait medallions seem to have been pretty popular decorations for muffs, but since I don't want to mess around with printing out an image with my printer on silk, I decided to forgo this option.

I really liked this example as well. It features some gorgeous detail work, including fly fringe. Having learned how to make fly fringe during the last class I took with Burnley & Trowbridge, I can tell you that's a big time investment! I think I managed about 6 inches of fringe after four hours of labor.

I have Emma from the Mantua Maker's shop to thank for helping choose this amazing color combination. I had already decided to go with green silk for my muff because I thought it would go nicely with my pink Robe Francaise. When I couldn't decide on how to trim the muff, Emma steered me towards the gorgeous peach silk ribbon. One of the great things about the muff is that it's essentially a pillow cover. I made a linen tube and filled it with wool batting for the inside. The silk cover slides on and off the pillow, so I can make as many silk covers as I want! That's nice since it seems like I'm always new gown in completely different colors.Here's the finished product! Doesn't it make you think of candy? A salt water taffy, or maybe French Macaroons? I definitely fell victim to the color palate from Sophia Coppola's "Marie Antoinette," but who cares?!Here are all the lovely muffs that were made during the Burnley & Trowbridge workshop.

18th Century Fashion Accessories

2011-04-06T10:31:00.010-04:00

It's spring, which must mean it's time for another fabulous Burn ley & Trowbridge workshop! I really missed attending these workshops: while I was in Colorado last year I missed out on the polonaise workshop I'd been begging and pleading for.

This workshop focused on "Calashes, Bonnets, Mitts & Lovely Little Bags," or the accessories of the late 18th & Early 19th Century. The accessories can really make the outfit and contribute to the authenticity of a look. Feast your eyes on all the eye candy accessories they brought with them to display at the workshop:Over the course of three days the ladies from the Marg aret Hun ter Mantua shop in Colonial Williamsburg and Angela of Burnley & Trowbridge taught us how to make little inked bags, calash bonnets, muffs, and mitts. No visit to Williamsburg is complete without a visit to the Mantua shop, and this time I was thrilled to see a little miniature doll-sized store on display. Look at the wee little stays, hoops, and pocket!!

I'm going to post separately about each project, starting here with the inked bags. Apparently these friendship bags were common in the early 19th century. The PowerPoint that Burnley & Trowbridge showed us had lots of period examples of these bags, but unfortunately I can't find any images online. You gave these bags to friends and loved ones as little tokens. There were even some really neat examples of these bags made in pink with abolitionist messages printed on them.

Black ink was applied directly to the cotton in order to mimic embroidery. We used a light box to trace out the images we liked. Here's the front of my bag: And the back of my bag which is a Jane Austin quote about a friendship bag: Unfortunately my back started hurting pretty quickly bending over the light box, or I might have made a more elaborate bag. Still, I was very pleased with how it turned out. I especially like the fringed edge, the hand braided decorative cording that I made, and the handmade tassels...which I just realized are not in my photograph. Oh well.

2011 Oscar Fashion Roundup

2011-02-28T14:45:00.015-05:00

Oscar 2011 will be remembered as the red, white, and nude year. Here are the reds:

Let's start with my pick for this year's Best Dressed: Anne Hathaway! I LOVED the Valentino gown, and the fact that Valentino walked her down the red carpet. I was amused that Valentino kept stressing that the gown was "Valentino Archive," but when Tim Gunn asked him what an "Archive" gown is, Valentino couldn't really answer the question (I looked it up...it's apparently a project his foundation is working on).

I actually saw Jennifer Hudson on one of the network's 'worst dressed' lists, and couldn't believe it. This was also one of my top picks. I felt she positively glowed in the beautiful color, and loved the draping. I do realized she's wearing more of an orange/tangerine, but I'm lumping it into the red category.

Sandra Bullock also joined the ranks of the power-red gowns in Vera Wang. I kinda like the gown from the front, but it has a big bow right on the butt. I just don't think butt-bows are a good idea. This picture doesn't show it, but her hair was a mess (it was in some sort of a ratty/lumpy updo that I didn't like).

Scarlett was wearing more of a burgandy than red, but I'm including her in this category. I really didn't care of the gown, but I know many will disagree. I read somewhere that the gown was lingerie inspired. Again...hated the hair. All messy.

I just don't like the gown Jennifer is wearing, but I understand that she's young so she might have wanted an understated or simple gown. Definitely fits with the red trend.

Penelope Cruz also showed up wearing red. I read some rave reviews of this gown. Personally, I don't think it's that flattering (though power to her for picking this gown one month after giving birth). And Penelope...you ALWAYS pick this shade of red (seriously...check out her gown last year). I know it's pretty on you, but could you surprise me once in a while?

This may or may not belong in the 'red' category. When I watched the red carpet show, the gown was definitely purple (and the commentators referred to it as purple). But then in the theater it definitely became burgundy, and the commentators referred to it as a raspberry color. Either way, it was very pretty and Natalie is glowing with her pregnancy.

And now we move to the white/nudes. Nicole Kidman is usually such a fashion icon on the red carpet, but this one was a miss for me. I love the fabric and the beading...I just don't like the draped detailing at the hip. I know Nicole doesn't have to worry about extra pounds, but I can't support any fashion trend that sets out to make hip hips/butt look bigger than they already are.

Cate Blanchett's gown was also a miss for me. I like the fabric and the tone-on-tone beading...I even like the interesting cut-away circle on her torso that reveals a layer of soft pleated silk. But then there are those weird draped shoulders and the canary yellow beading at the neckline.

Ok, Gwyneth was totally HOT in Calvin Klein! I already know my mom disagrees with me on this one. Seriously, though, how HIP does she look? The sequined gold gown with the rocking jewels at her hip. That plunging neckline is amazing. We should all be so lucky in our 40s.

And then she went and ruined it all by wearing this dowdy shapeless dress without a bra. Really didn't like this one.

Michele Williams is also wearing a nude gown that critics have raved about, but I just don't care for. There's nothing interesting going on here. It's also a little matronly on her.

I really didn't like Melissa Leo's mirror-crusted gown. The neckline has a little bit of appeal, but they you add those boxy shoulders and all those mirrors it's just a mess. Does she get seven years of bad luck for all those broken mirrors?

Mandy Moore looked very pretty in this sheer tulle gown.

And Halle Berry's gown was STUNNING! Another favorite of the evening. All that wispy tulle, and the tone makes her skin positively glow. LOVED this.

Hailee Steinfeld looks great in her nude-colored gown as well. The dress is sweet and very age appropriate while still having some very nice glam (look at all that embroidery over the tulle)

Colin Firth walked the red carpet with his wife Livia. Her gown initially only caught my eye because it was fitting in with the nude trend I was seeing. But I read up a bit more on it: turns out it's an eco-friendly gown. 11 gowns were cut up and recycled into this beautiful gown. I admit I was hoping that the gowns would be ugly 1980 frocks that no one would miss, but was a bit horrified to learn that they were apparently from the King's Speech era. I just hope the designer chose to recycle gowns that could not be salvaged.

I really don't care for this gown at all, and I know it's more yellow than nude, but I'm including it as a final nod to the white/nude trend.

Hillary Swank has shown up on lots of the worst dressed lists, but she's one of my favorites this year. I loved the way her gown moved on the red carpet. The ombre design and the feathers were fun. What's not to like?

This gown doesn't fit into any of this year's trends, but isn't it gorgeous? It takes the right kind of body to pull off a gown like that, but Camila Alves did (Mathew McConaughey's date)

Reese Witherspoon's dress was a bit understated for my taste, but the simplicity seemed to work for her. It was also made to fit her like a glove. Her hair and makeup also looked so pretty during a red carpet interview. The lady has class.

Marissa Tomei is wearing a vintage gown. I initially liked it when I saw it on the red carpet show, but the more I've looked at it, the more I've decided it was a miss. The neckline doesn't fit her very well. What do you guys think?

I did not like Mila Kunis' gown at all. The lavender is a nice color on her, but I just don't care for the neckline. The lace cupping her breasts looks a little trashy. The rest of the gown looks like it has lots of little windows.

Man I did not like Amy Adams' dress. And why is she wearing Emeralds with navy blue? Didn't work for me.

I don't know what Annette Bening was thinking with this gown. Maybe if it didn't have all those horizontal diamond stripes...

Ok...I can't pick on Helena Bonham Carter too much. She's too easy a mark, and I actually like that she's a free spirit and dresses the way she wants. Let's just say I liked the neckline, and that's about it. Apparently Coleen Atwood (the Alice in Wonderland Costume designer) helped to put together this ensemble. It was some sort of anti-red-carpet fashion statement

I LOVE that Hugh Jackman is married to a normal-looking woman. His wife is pretty, but she's not a six-foot model bombshell. That being said...I do not know what's going on with her dress. I think she might be carrying a wrap or coat, and maybe that's where all the feathers are coming from. But this this camera-angle, she's my top-pick for worst-dressed this year.

So as a finale to the Oscar Roundup, let's talk about Anne Hathaway's amazing ability to change gowns. I actually liked her last gown. It was edgy and made me feel reassured that Christopher Nolan had made the right selection for Catwoman in his upcoming Batman movie. The gown reminds me a bit of the costumes from Chronicles of Riddick.

Wow do I not like this Armani Prive gown. It just screams yucky synthetic fiber fabric.

Aha! Even Anne Hathaway did a red gown this year! This Atelier Versace is gorgeous. What's not to like?

I guess this dress was a lot of fun because of the tassels, but I'm not sure the Oscar de la Renta gown was my favorite. I think I might have liked it more without the tassels. The shape of the gown is stunning, and I love the one-shoulder look on Anne.

How can I resist a Vivienne Westwood gown? Need I say more?

Another one of my favorite gowns of the entire evening. Givenchy Haute Couture gown, stunning beading, and fits in with the white/nude trend. I love this gown. It's sophisticated. It sparkles. It has a bit of Greek Goddess going for it. The fitted bustier top is flattering on anyone. Definitely a hit with me!

I'll sign off a final note. Apparently Anne Hathaway wore millions of Tiffany & Co. jewelry throughout the show. She had jewelry to go with every outfit, and one necklace alone cost 10 million...94 carats worth of diamonds (small beans when you consider Nicole Kidman was wearing 150 carats last night). Her rep denies it, but Anne was reportedly paid $750,000 by Tiffany's to wear the jewelry. Where has this job been all my life, and where do I sign up?

Williamsburg's Milliner Shop

2010-10-24T20:46:00.004-04:00

I LOVE the Milliner shop in Williamsburg. I've been very lucky to have met most of the ladies from the Milliner shop at various workshops I've attended. If you're on the east coast, check out Burnley and Trowbridge's website to see their fall and spring workshops. They work with both the Tailor and the Milliners of Williamsburg.

Last weekend I spent some time in the Milliner shop. (Disclaimer: all photos below are from the Milliner shop's Facebook page...I apparently was enjoying myself too much to take any photos).
I found out that there is an AMAZING symposium coming up on colonial accessories. I'm dying to go, but the cost has prevented me from rushing to the website to sign up. The conference alone is $300...without any of the fun tours and workshops that I would definitely want to add on. I would also have to take three days off from work...and I'm trying to save my vacation days to go see my nephew in Vegas. That being said, there are talks featuring Linda Baumgarten (curator of costumes at Colonial Williamsburg) and Susan North (the curator of fashion at the Victoria and Albert Museum). There are lots of other amazing talks! I may still talk myself into this event...

There will be a new exhibit at the Williamsburg museum on 18th century accessories opening in January. The Milliner shop worked on recreating some amazing gowns and then produced a film featuring the gowns and accessories for the exhibit. When Dave and I went in to Williamsburg in September, we watched the ladies work on the yellow silk jacket and black Calesh hood from this image (they even had the image on display at their work table):The Milliner's facebook just posted pictures from the film production. Isn't this reproduction amazing?

Finished Tudor Hood

2010-09-18T21:46:00.004-04:00

So it's taken three weeks of gathering beads/pearls, but I've finally completed the French hood. I found pearl necklaces at Nordstrom Rack for 3 times less than a bead store. I ordered lots of beads from Firemountain.com. Only about 1/4 of those worked for the project...the rest are going back. Finally, I've visited about 4 specialty bead stores, and finally found the pretty red crystals this weekend.
So above is my French hood, and below is Anne Boleyn in her French hood.
This shot shows that the hood isn't really sticking straight up...it slopes back gently.And here's a side shot of the hood...Compared with an early portrait of Princess Elizabeth (later Elizabeth I).
I'm pretty pleased with the final version. Now I just have to get my hair to cooperate and tuck up into the hood. Copious amounts of gel will no doubt be required to tame my bangs into submission.

Tudor Hood Progress

2010-09-12T18:26:00.004-04:00

More progress! I would have finished the project this weekend, but I didn't have the beads I need for the billaments. Finding fake pearls, garnet colored beads, and gold colored beads has been impossible! I keep visiting bead stores, and all they carry is the real deal...where the gold beads are $2 a piece, pearls come on tiny $12 strands, and garnets come on $60 strands. I've tried the internet, but I have a hard time picturing the right size, and how they'll look next to each other.
My silk arrived from Thailand this week. I cut out the black silk pieces and basted it onto the buckram base. Then, I cut the same pieces out in white linen, and sewed the linen on the inside of the crescent and base. This secured the taffeta in place, and I could remove the large basting stitches. With the two pieces finally completed, I sewed the crescent to the base, and the photo above is the result.Next, I took a long strip of gold organza silk, ran gathering stitches, and then steamed the gathered silk to set the pleats. Then I sewed the strip in place. This part of the hood was referred to as the 'crepine.'Finally I sewed the veil to the hood. The veil is essentially a tube of black silk that's attached along the top edge of the crescent.

So what do you think so far?

French Hood

2010-08-29T22:09:00.005-04:00

I'm still waiting on some fabric to arrive, but my buckram arrived this weekend so I decided to work on my French hood. I cut out the pattern pieces in buckram first:

And then I sewed millinery wire around all the edges of the pattern pieces. Here's the crescent pattern piece:And here's the brim:Next, I sewed baby flannel to smooth the surface of the pattern pieces. The Tudor Tailor book called for using something called 'domette,' but I couldn't find any. It's apparently a British fine flannel. I had some leftover baby flannel from my Gainsborough hat project, and it was just enough to cover both the hood and the crescent.Next up will be covering the pieces with black taffeta, sewing the crescent to the brim, and then sewing on the veil and decorations.

Tudor Project: Progress!

2010-08-22T19:19:00.003-04:00

I am pleased to report actual sewing and progress on the Tudor project. This weekend, I cut out the mock-up for the kirtle and sewed it up. Once again, the mock-up has proved to be an invaluable tool...the first draft was two sizes too small. So...I retraced everything, cut it out again, and then sewed up the second mock-up. This one works nicely. I forgot to take a picture while I had it on my fitting dummy, but here's a rather unimpressive photo of it laid flat:I've ordered all the fabrics I need for the kirtle, and have to wait a few days for things to arrive in the mail. I'm using black taffeta for the kirtle. Since the taffeta isn't actually going to show, I'm doing something I don't normally do - I'm using polyester taffeta instead of silk. I've also ordered canvas for the interlining and some metal boning for the side seams (otherwise I'm using reed and have plenty of it).

Since I'm waiting on fabric to arrive, I thought I'd get a head start on the hood and start drafting the pattern. I used the Tudor Tailor, and transferred the pattern using one-inch grid paper. This is the first time I've ever transferred a pattern from a book instead of using a full size pattern. I think it went really well. Here's a copy of the pattern next to the book:I've gone ahead and ordered the buckram/silk taffeta/silk organza that I'll need for this project as well. I already have the felt and millinery wire.

In other very old and unrelated news, I went to the Gettysburg reenactment this year back in July. I'm not that interested in reenacting...I was really just there for the sutlers. To my delight, one of my favorite sutlers from Gettysburg was there: Abraham's Lady. They had a reenactor on hand to display this wonderful confection of a dress:I'm not sure how many yards of ribbon it took to trim this dress, but it's pleated by hand with a pearl hand stitched at each pleat. I believe they said it took something like 20 yards of silk to make the dress at a total cost of $2000. They described the silk as "oriental" and that it had red and blue threads woven together to give it a changing purplish hue. I thought it looked like changeable silk taffeta, but I was rather firmly informed that there was "no taffeta in the fabric." I always thought taffeta was a weave vs. fiber content. Anyone else care to speculate on the fabric?

I'm Sewing: Tudor Gown

2010-08-02T08:26:00.005-04:00

Seriously...I AM. I actually traced some pattern pieces this weekend. Next stop - muslin! I've just completed another move, and after being without my sewing stuff for a year, I decided NO MORE. I brought all of my sewing stuff up to my in-laws, and they graciously let me set up a sewing space in their basement. I spent Saturday arranging things, and then Sunday I actually decided to dive right in and start on a project.

I'm working from the Tudor Tailor Pattern that my in-laws gave me for Christmas a year ago. This is without a doubt the most expensive pattern I've ever owned...almost $80 to purchase. It does have the patterns for three garments: petticoat, kirtle, and gown - but still, that's pretty expensive. The pattern is MASSIVE. Kendra at Demode had warned that the pattern pieces were very unwieldly, but it wasn't until I had the pattern spread out accross the entire living room floor that the sheer size of the pattern struck me.

First impressions on the pattern: well, the fact that there are no seam allowances included is very frustrating for me. I normally trace the pattern pieces rather than cut them out so I can reuse the pattern which makes adding seam allowances a bit easier, but these pieces are so big I can't use my tracing paper (some are wider than 60 inches). I'm at a bit of a loss on how to proceed: I'd really like to make more than one gown style from this pattern, but I have no way to transfer the markings. Any ideas?

Another first impression is that the instructions kinda suck. I had to read the kirtle instructions six times before I felt I had a vague notion of how to proceed. The instructions aren't illustrated at each step which makes it challenging for me - I'm a visual learner. I've decided to be on the safe side I'm going to completely make up a garment using scrap fabric. I normally just fit the bodice using muslin and then move on. This time I'm going to bone the muslin, work the eyelets, and finish all seams. I just really need to understand how this garment is made before cutting out the fashion fabric.

I'm doing a mid-Tudor style, like the portrait of Princess Elizabeth above. I really wanted to have the massive sleeves and bell shape that comes from wearing a farthingale. Someday I'll probably make an earlier Tudor gown with a train, but for now this is what I want. I already own a farthingale, so I'm moving strait to the kirtle. I'm ordering black taffeta to go with a golden upholstery fabric I snagged from a bargain table in Dutch country Pennsylvania. For the gown, I have a cotton velvet I'd like to use. The velvet is a peachy color that's all wrong for the Tudor period. I'm going to take my first jaunt into dying fabric for this project, and try to acheive a nice deep red.

I'd like to get to wear this outfit at the Maryland Renaissance festival this year, but that might be a bit ambitious. Each garment is very involved, and I don't have all the fabric I need yet. We'll see how this goes. Wish me luck!

Oscar Fashion Roundup

2010-03-08T10:08:00.008-05:00

It's that time of year again! Time for Melissa's not-so-famous Oscar fashion round up. I'll tell you up front that this year I did not choose a single best dressed lady - no one really stood out. I do, however, have a great compilation of some of the better looks this year. First of all, let's start with this year's fashion trend. Gold was the name of the game. Let's see who fell in step with the trend:Sandra Bullock disappointed me this year. It was her big year, and she played it very safe by dressing a la Oscar statuette. I would have much preferred to see something dazzling, and this just didn't do it for me.Cameron Diaz looks very pretty in her gold beaded dress.More gold on Kate Winslet. The cut of this dress was very flattering, if a little boring.Miley Cyrus also joined the Gold club. I really didn't like the bodice of her dress. Anything that fits so poorly that it makes you hunch over to make sure you stay covered is a bad fashion choice.Amanda Seyfried is one of my best dressed this year. Her Armani Prive gown shimmered, and I liked the bodice of her gown.Jennifer Lopez, also in Armani Prive, looks very similar to Amanda Seyfried. Same iridescent looking fabric. However, I still like the gown, and the train draping off the side of her hip is very flattering. One of the best dressed.Jessica Parker took a risk with this gown, and I think it paid off. The drape of the Chanel gown is very flattering, and I love the neckline. Wasn't a fan of the gargantuan bun though.Carey Mulligan's dress is just adorable. The cut of the Prada gown is very flattering.Diane Kruger in Chanel. I'm normally not a fan of the nude shades, but this one has such nice detailing, and the black really makes the gown pop. Another of my favorite gowns.Penelope Cruz played it safe this year, and wore a flattering Donna Karen couture gown.I know some people are going to disagree with me on this one, but I liked Vera Famiga's Marchesa gown. It moved very gracefully with her and was a piece of art. I just don't feel it belongs on the worst dressed list. It was too pretty. Okay, let me start by saying I don't think the gown is terribly flattering on Mrs. Cameron. She's too skinny through the shoulders for this to look truly stunning on her. However, I thought I'd give them a shout out for cleverly wearing blue to support Avatar.

Now we come to the worst dressed category. Yes, I'm puttying Rachel McAdams on the worst dressed list. A tie dyed gown is just not pretty, no matter how flattering the shape and cut of the gown is.

Ah, Demi Moore. This could have been such a pretty dress in any other color. I just don't like dresses that are the same color as skin tone. It makes people look washed out.Maggie Gyllenhaal's dress just didn't do it for me. I've looked at the pattern on the dress up close, and I guess it sort of has a kimono pattern to it, but to me it just looks like splotches of color from far away.

Chalize Theron nearly made worst dressed this year. Putting roses right over her chest was a guarantee that no one would be looking at her face, or the rest of the gown. Very poor choice.Ah, Zoe Saldana. This year's worst dressed. I have to say I adore the actress, but this dress is just a mess. Way too much going on, and not flattering. It looks like a barbie dress gone terribly wrong.

Aaah!! I have such a sewing bug...

2010-02-03T12:14:00.003-05:00

...and yet I'm not sewing. Why, you ask? Well, half of my sewing stuff is put away in storage, and the other half is very badly arranged in my parents' basement. I had everything I needed to start my new civil war gown...and then I went to take my measurements in my corset and the darned thing didn't fit. Pardon the pun...but I was a bit squeezed into the corset. I don't have what's necessary to make a new corset, so that era is out for now.

Now I'm sitting here thinking about the Renaissance festival and an upcoming Jane Austen tea. I have everything I need to make my fabulous Tudor gown, and everything I need to make a Jane Austen Spencer to really spice up my Regency outfit. But all of that stuff is in the back of a storage unit. I am one very frustrated costume diva.

Civil War Day Dress 2: Viewers Please Weigh In

2009-10-10T12:11:00.004-04:00

Hi all,

I'm getting ready to start my next project, and find that I'm slightly stuck on choosing which pattern will go with what fabric. I'm going to make a day dress out of the following fabric:
The question is should I make a simple very period accurate dress from pattern 4551 (I like the lower right hand dress...the sleeves are pretty):
Or make a prettier day dress out of pattern 3727:The hang up is that I was considering using the 3727 pattern for my purple silk from India.
Of course, I could always make up pattern 2887 out of the silk, and that would be pretty too. What do you think? Which pattern is destined to be make up from my pretty homespun purple plaid? Feel free to weigh in on the silk too, but that's a future project.

Girl's Revolutionary Dress

2009-10-04T20:05:00.004-04:00

This project is finished. Here's the final photo:
The front panel is a pink satin. I used net trim that I found in the .97 cent bin (wohoo!), roccoco trim on top of that, and net lace for the sleeves. With the exception of a little trouble with the zipper, no problems, and the dress went together like a dream.

I'm also announcing that I'm assembling a gallery of my completed projects so they'll be all together in one place.

Robe Francaise

2009-10-03T20:23:00.000-04:00

A Little Girl's Dress Up Gown

2009-09-13T20:37:00.005-04:00

I've begun a small sewing project while staying at my parents' house. I learned that my flower girl has cherished her flower girl dress over these last five years, and was so touched I decided that she needed another special dress that will fit her now. We went through the pattern catalogs together, and she picked out this 18th century girl's McCalls' pattern (M5414):
The dress is fairly straight forward to make. I'm using some of my fabric stash for this outfit:I've cut out all of the patterned cotton shown on top, but when it got time to cut out the faille I just couldn't do it. I bought these two as a pair, intending the faille to be an 18th century petticoat, and the cotton to be an 18th century jacket (obviously not very period). The faille, even though it's only poly, cost quite a bit is very nice quality. It's going back into the stash, and I'm going to the fabric store tomorrow. I think a pink poly satin will do the job nicely. I also need to pick up some interfacing and a zipper. This will be very cute when finished.

Calling all Colorado Springs Costumers...

2009-09-12T18:49:00.002-04:00

For any of you in the Colorado Springs area who make costumes, or have always been interested in getting involved with costumed events, this announcement is for you. I would like to start a local Costumers' Circle - a much more casual version of a costuming guild. We would get together at each others' houses once and a while to sew and chat, and we could organize costumed outings and events, such as to the Renaissance Festival, teas, the Madrigal dinner at Glen Eyrie, etc. Contact me at thecostumediva@gmail.com for additional information. Look forward to hearing from you.

I'm Sewing!!!

2009-04-19T16:09:00.002-04:00

Okay, I'm re-engaging with the sewing after a bit of illness. For a while there, I was convinced that I would have nothing to bring with me to Costume Con, and was considering dropping out of the one competition I'm enrolled it. But NOW....

...I started wanting to sew again last Wednesday. I fit the bodice toile Wednesday night, cut out the pattern on Thursday night, and I've almost got the basic gown assembled. Then, there will still be finishing details, trim, and three accessory garment pieces that need to go with it. Still, I'm feeling very pleased that I will have something to compete with.

Otherwise, I'm going to be selecting costumes to wear to Costume Con, I've signed up for the Victorian hairpieces workshop, and I'm going to be a model for one of Simplicity's news patterns! I"m definitely looking forward to Costume Con, and all the fun I'm going to have!

The Devil's in the Details

2009-04-04T21:16:00.005-04:00

A few weeks ago I went to Williamsburg to take a another Burnley and Trowbridge workshop, and I'm just now getting around to posting the photos. There were lots and lots of froofy dresses to look and and drool over, and I learned a few new tricks:

How to make your own 18th century trim (seriously...this was so time consuming, I can't ever see wanting to do this myself...but I suppose you never know just how crazy 'period correct' I might want to go some day).How to make Death Head buttons. These are really cool! Here are the ones I made. I had a much easier time with the basic four point Death Head than the six point "Astral" pattern (the one where I used two colors). I was cursing that silly button the whole time.So, enough about what I learned. Here's what came out of the Williamsburg Costume shop vault: a froofy organza cap.FROOFY apron.A pretty stomacher with lots of froofy trim.A pretty purple and white stomacher with an amazing blue and white hat next to it.A pink Polonaise with Organza trim.An amazing Robe Francaise with self trim.A froofy organza and silk trimmed robe Francaise.And the piece de resistance that I really wanted to take home with me: A FROOFY yummy hat.

I apologize for the overuse of the word froofy in this post, but it's the appropriate adjective. I thought the striped polonaise brigade might get a kick out of this.

In other news, I'm in a bit of a costuming funk. The timing couldn't be worse, with Costume Con at the end of the month, but I just can't seem to make myself get my sewing out. The only contest I've pre-signed up for is the Single Pattern competition, but I may be pulling out of it. Oh well. It will still be fun to go. I'm also getting cool invites that I'm not sure I can accept. (there's a trip to Williamsburg that I'm dying to go on, and a tea), but I think everything is falling in the middle of the week, and with no leave saved up, I'm out of luck.

Dumbarton House

2009-03-06T18:36:00.005-05:00

Well, you'll probably notice I am NOT wearing a Regency Spencer. I decided not to rush the
Spencer, and wore my cashmere shawl instead. I spent a good portion of the night before decorating my bonnet, so I didn't want to pull an all nighter when I had to get up early the next day.So, here's the costuming group, all together at Dumbarton House in Georgetown. The woman in the middle wearing black is Mary Doering, the co-curator of the lovely period clothing collection we were there to visit. We loved visiting the house which was built at the beginning of the Regency era, and the gowns were lovely (no photos inside the house, unfortunately).
Here's the mandatory group shoe picture! I'm wearing the pink silk slipper in the lower right corner. A few people asked me where I got it - I found it on Amazon, but it's available at many online shoe stores. The shoe is from BC footwear and the model is called "babycakes."I loved so many of my fellow costumers' outfits. Loren, as always, is wearing an AMAZING hat, and I love her matching overgown and muff.I love how Jenny Rose used red and yellow together to make such a gorgeous ensemble.I think my favorite gown was worn by Marilee. Here, she's wearing a fabulous Pelisse that matches her gown, pictured below.Marilee is a Pastry Chef at a very chic restaurant in DC. She and the restaurant treated us to tea and pastries after our tour. We all got a sample platter of three desserts. They were some of the best I've ever had - I loved the Tiramisu, and that's saying a lot since I have rarely, if ever, met a Tiramisu that I liked.I meant to get a picture of the desserts because they were so pretty, but the were SO good that by the time I remembered to take a photo, my plate was clean, as was most everyone else's. Overall, it was a lovely day! I can't wait for our next outing.

Promises, Promises

2009-02-25T21:00:00.001-05:00

Okay, so I know I said I would only be working on Costume Con projects between now and May. I really DID try to get started on my single pattern competition entry, but I couldn't find some of the fabric I purchased for it in my fabric stash. The state of my walk-in closet, and the fact that I practically have to empty out the shelves to get to all of my stuff doesn't help.

So when I got tired of digging around in boxes, in a huff I remembered that I have a trip to Dumbarton House this weekend in Regency clothing. That pattern was within my line-of-sight, and the fabric for it is a large bolt of fabric that is contributing to the closet traffic jam. I figured a Spencer and a bonnet might help disguise the fact that my ballgown isn't appropriate daywear, and thus began yet another Costume ADD project - a Regency Spencer.

I'm using another great Sense and Sensibility pattern and making the double breasted spencer on the far right. The pieces sew together beautifully, and I think this will be a fairly simple project. I made up a toile last night out of muslin in the same size as the ball gown and was incredibly pleased to note that it was way too big (we're talking fistfulls of fabric too big). I took it down one size, but now I'm worried that it will be a bit too snug once I get all the layers put on. I'm going to have to put on my gown for another fitting tonight (not a big alteration if the front is a bit too snug), and then hopefully I can move on to cutting out my fashion fabric (the toile will be the lining). I'm using a peach cotton velvet. This is an example of a finished spencer from Pride and Prejudice. Mine won't have the fussy sleeves, but here it is:

Melissa's Annual Oscar Fashion Review

2009-02-22T22:40:00.014-05:00

Yes, I know you've all been waiting for this. Why listen to cranky Joan Rivers when you can have a completely subjective review by someone with no professional knowledge of the fashion industry. This year's big trend was: white, white, and more white. Even the winner of "Melissa's Best Dressed" joined the ranks of the white gowns:
A Big Congrats to Marissa Tomei in Versace. She may not have taken a statue home, but she was certainly dressed like she was ready to. I adore the structured layers of this gown. I really wish I could have seen the red carpet show to see how this dress moved. I bet it was mesmerizing!

Others joined Marissa in the ranks of the running of the brides:Jessica Biel - I think this one was a mistake. The front draping is really unflattering.Penelope Cruz - yikes, you knew you were probably going to win and you wore something that looks like two vintage bridal dresses thrown together. The lace, the frothy tulle in Disney's Belle ruching...definitely one of my lest favorite this year.Miley Cyrus - my initial reaction to this gown is I like it. Once you start analyzing the petals, she has some sort of under-the-sea theme going on (her belt has two shells on it), but I'm going to stick with my gut reaction and say I liked this look.Melissa George - no hesitation here. I don't like it. Morticia Adams in white whith corset strings that really need to be snipped shorter.Taraji Henson - I applaud any of the white dresses that stood out in my mind on Oscar night, and this is one of them. The layering of the fabric is gorgeous and sets off her skin tone beautifully.Nancy O'Dell - again, not too bad. If I was going to wear white to the Oscars, I'd want to look like a Greek Goddess, which Nancy O'Dell is pulling off here.Sarah Jessica Parker - another winner. I don't know how a woman her age can look good in net and tulle, but she just does. The fitted top flatters, and she's definitely channeling her Sex In the City days.Evan Rachel Wood - her hair is the only saving grace that allows her to wear this gown. I just don't think the gown should fade into the background because it exactly matches your skin tone. Beautiful gown, just not the one for Evan Rachel Wood.

To those who resisted the urge to fall in with the crowd and be an Oscar Bride this year, kudos go out to!Kate Winslet, My Best Dressed Runner Up in Atelier Yves St. Laurent. I don't know why, but I love this one. She looks very elegant.
Angelina Jolie - well, no big surprise that she wore black since it's her signature color, but it was a welcome change from the rest of the crowd.Viola Davis looks gorgeous in this gold dress, and definitely stands out in the crowd. The pleats are beautiful.Brownie points to Alicia Keys for wearing a flattering color, though she's channeling Beyonce a bit with that thigh-slit.Frieda Pinto - you know, I would have loved to see her wearing something by an Indian designer instead of John Galliano. That being said, it is a very flattering dress, and I actually really like the one transparent sleeve. The bottom of the dress has that same tulle effect that I liked so much on Sarah Jessica Parker.Amy Adams. There were a handful of red dresses on the runway this year, but none of them seemed noteworthy except for perhaps Amy Adams' dress. I LOVE the Fred Leighton necklace that she's wearing, but I'm not sure about the black pipe detailing on the dress. The draping in the front with chiffon is gorgeous. This one is a hit and miss with me. Natalie Portman - I love the dress shape, draping, and fabric, but I don't think bubblegum pink is her color. C+ for effort and not falling in with the all white dress crowd.Melissa Leo is my Runner up for Worst Dressed in Badgley Mischka. I don't know who to blame - the designer or the stylist. The color is horrible for her, and the torso of the gown is WAY too long to be flattering. This dress could have been a perfect gown, but instead it makes her look older and dowdy.This year's Worst Dressed goes out to Mary Hart. Her picture doesn't say who she's wearing, but it looks like a very badly wrinkled Monet gone all wrong.

Did I leave out anyone you feel is worthy of a mention? I couldn't fit everyone in here, so I went for the ones that jumped out at me. I'd be happy to discuss some more in the comments.

A little side note: I filled out my Oscar Ballot on Saturday. This year I got 18 correct out of 24 categories (about the same as last year). I decided that Mikey Rourke was probably going to win Best Actor, even though I though Sean Penn deserved it. Just shows, I shoulda stuck with my gut feeling. I thought 'Presto" was a shoe in for the animated short film (I mean, when was the last time Pixar didn't win this category??). I also missed Best Foreign - I think Waltz with Bashir got snubbed because it was animated. The others I missed were categories I frequently get wrong: live action short film, sound editing, and sound mixing.

George Washington's Birthday Ball

2009-02-17T19:38:00.006-05:00

Well, the Regency ballgown is officially completed. I hemmed it last week, and wore it to George Washington's Birthday Ball at Gatsby's tavern. Dave came to the ball with me (it was Valentine's day) and I had a GREAT time dancing! I spent a good portion of the night 'costume shopping,' or admiring other lady's outfits to find out where they got their patterns/wigs/accessories. The Ball was set in the year 1799, and I'm a bit too avant-guard - my dress is more like an 1805 or 1807 dress. The lady that's in the picture with me is perfect for the year 1799:
I love her overgown, the long gloves, and the turban was perfect! I have an overgown and turban planned for this gown, but CostumeCon priorities come first until May.
Mary took this great shot of my dress from the back, and I went ahead and helped myself to it because I like how it shows off the pleats at the back of the gown.Here, Mary and I post together out in the banquet room, as we enjoy chocolate dipped dried fruit, cream puffs, and other yummy indulgences in between dances. Mary attends sewing night with me, and it was great to see a friendly and familiar face there!

Here was another great 1799 gown/overgown combination. The couple pictures is dancing the opening minuet at the Ball. It was very pretty, and I have to admit, not at all what I expected a minuet would be.Loren gets the prize for my favorite costume of the evening. It had that 'all together' look that was just perfect. Her wig is EXACTLY what 1799 hair should look like, the overgown is gorgeous silk, and the undergown is fine transparent cotton with a white embroidered hem. I thought she looked very nice. Loren and I met at the Williamsburg Riding Habit workshop - I'm apparently finally getting a good handle on the costuming community!

1740's Riding Habit

2009-02-08T21:44:00.007-05:00

Another weekend, another Williamsburg workshop. This time we were learning to draft/drape 18th century riding habits. The riding habit above is one that the Williamsburg Millinery shop reproduced, and is an almost exact replica of a riding habit at the London Museum.

I went into the class only knowing that I wanted a green riding habit, with worsted wool in hand. I had no idea what style of riding habit I wanted to make - we watched a slide presentation showing habits from the beginning to end of the 18th century. Although I loved some of the later century riding habits (especially the hats), the riding habit on display had caught my eye and I was in love with it. When the instructor asked me what I wanted to make, I pointed over to the mannequin and said "I want that." And so, the 1740's riding habit project was born.

I took a close up picture of the back to show the pretty hand-detailed stitching, and the gorgeous point in the back of the riding habit. It's lined in the same blue silk taffeta that the waist coat is made from. I'm a little daunted at the prospect of figuring out how to drape the skirt of the coat by myself, as well as a few finishing details that I'm unsure on (cuffs, collars??).

At the workshops, we only work on the tops - the skirts are simple and something that we can do on our own at home. We get a basic fitting basted down, and then we're expected to finish up everything on our own. This is as far as my riding habit got. I have chalked on lines on the green wool which will take out some more fabric - right now it's able to close all the way down, but I actually only want it to button down to the bust gusset. I also have sleeves, but I didn't get a picture in them. They're very narrow and fit perfectly.

Here is my fitting partner - she had made her skirt and riding shirt ahead of time (I still have to make mine). The top was drafted by me. I think it went pretty well. I had some very minor corrections from the instructor, but otherwise I'm getting this draping thing down.

The instructor brought along an 18th century sidesaddle was pretty neat. We were allowed to sit in in and get a feel for what it might be like. How funny that this class was only a week before I started my sidesaddle riding lessons! I don't think the saddle above would qualify as a 'safety' sidesaddle that modern ladies use, but it's still fun.
I just HAD to bring back a picture of this Lady Worsley riding hat because I just drooled over it. There were so many feathers on that hat!! I tried it on and really liked it, but I'll have to figure something else out since my riding habit will be far too early for this look. Apparently ladies didn't wear tricorns after the 1730's (if you were British, anyway). I'm thinking I might take on an Austrian persona when wearing my 1740's riding habit so that I can wear a tricorn. Marie Antoinette was pictured wearing a tricorn in the 1770's.

I'll enjoy finishing this project, but it is definitely on hold for now. I'm putting the final touches on my regency ball gown before George Washington's Birthday ball (on Valentine's day), and then it's time to start some SERIOUS CostumeCon sewing.

18th Century Completed Stays

2009-01-26T19:46:00.003-05:00

I hereby declare the never-ending 18th century stays project complete!!! This is the first garment I ever made that was drafted and crafted for my measurements.
I hand-bound the edges of the stays with a very soft goat leather. The wooden bones don't poke through the leather. Any future corsets that I make with wood will have leather binding! The inside of the stays are lined in a checked linen. Apparently plaid and stripes were the most commonly found linings in 18th century stays.I picked up this handy little tool at the Williamsburg stays' workshop. It's a bodkin, and is used to help lace up your stays. Sure is a lot easier than using shoe lace plastic tips (and more period correct)So here I am modeling the corset. Caly wanted to be in the picture too. You would not generally wear a petticoat underneath the corset like I am doing, but my shift is very sheer so it's for modesty's sake.Here's the side shot. I have the perfect mid 18th century flat front. Without the flat front, you can't properly fit the 18th century gown which requires a rigid foundation.Whoa...cleavage shot. What I'm really trying to show here is the nice triangular shape that my torso has taken by wearing the stays. Again, this is part of the 18th century aesthetic. Here you can see how the corset is laced up. Rather than using a modern lacing technique (where it looks like you're tying a shoe), this corset is spiral laced. The eyelets are off center, and the corset is laced from the bottom up. This pushes everything up as you lace the corset, which is the desired effect for the 18th century. I never realized how lacing can be so important to giving the corset the right shape: this same corset looks different if I start lacing from the top and doesn't look correct. Victorian corsets are laced and tied in the middle, so that the waist is nipped in.
On an unrelated note...I've been finding old childhood photos, and I found this picture (I'm on the far left, my sister is the next one over). In one of those "as-luck-would-have-it" moments, my sister and I got to be walk-on girls for the Opera Eugene Onegin. I was nine years old. The Opera was in Europe, and this was long enough ago that the visiting opera troupe was known as the Opera of Leningrad. Wow was their costume room fun!!I loved having the little curls at the side of my head, and I thought my dress was so lady-like (my sister was very unhappy when they put her in a shorter gown and bloomers because if her age, but she was as cute as a button!). As we were leaving every night, the performers would come out in their enormous white ball gowns that seemed to stand out a mile, with lots of tulle and satin (if you've ever seen the movie version with Liv Tyler, this is toward the end where Onegin sees Tatiana at a ball and finds out she's married). I think these photos mark the beginning of my fascination with historical costumes.

Let The Costuming Resume!

2008-12-30T10:57:00.006-05:00

After devoting most of December to handcrafted Christmas presents for my family, I'm back to my costuming. It's definitely crunch time: I have a ball, a workshop, and Costume Con to work on, so I'm planning to devout quite a bit of time to sewing from now until May.

Just so you can see what I've been up to in December, here are photos of my family with their 'magic quilts.' The pillows unfold into quilted blankets. Above, my mother-in-law got a 'Provencal' style in blue. Everyone got a personalized quilt based off their hobbies and personalities:My sister-in-law got a kitty print pillow.

Her Husband got a hockey themed pillow

And my father-in-law (the LGB train nut) got a train themed pillow.

Right now my main focus is finishing the binding on my 18th century corset. I worked on it over the Christmas holiday (you can see my dog Caly dutifully assisting me), and I've been working on it in the evenings in front of the TV.

I just finished binding the top of the corset this evening: Of course, it's the easiest. I dread all those tabs on the bottom of the corset.

For those of you who have never used leather to bind your corset, I have to say I highly recommend it. My glover needle cuts through the leather like butter, and the leather stretches and conforms to the shape of the corset a lot better than normal fabric binding. There's the added benefit of having leather protecting you from any protruding reed bones as well. After my old corset, having a strong layer of leather in between me and the reed ends will be a welcome change.

Boning and Binding and Costume College

2008-12-08T00:35:00.002-05:00

For some reason, despite the fact that I have rotated these pictures with my photo viewer, blogger refused to upload them without rotating them back to their original position. Sorry in advance for any cricked necks that may result from this post.
So I have finished boning my 18th century Stays. The Silly Sisters came through for me, and recommended that I replace the flimsy ash reed that just wasn't working with oval reed. What a difference that made! I feel like they're really starting to look like the real thing.Next up is binding the edges. I have 15 yards of fine white goat leather. I was apprehensive about binding the stays in leather since I had never worked with leather before, but I'm amazed at how easy the leather is to work with. I'm using a 'glover' needle, or a leather needle, which I'm sure helps. It is specially made to pierce the leather more easily. The problem I'm encountering is with my thread. My instructions recommend using silk thread, but the silk keeps raveling and bunching while I'm using it. Any ideas? Should I be waxing the silk before I start using it? I also have some more modern 'thread conditioner' I picked up at my local fabric store.As you can see I haven't progressed very far yet - I've been distracted with Christmas projects and preparations (I know, I know, excuses, excused). Overall, I think it will look very nice though. I'm using a backstick on the exterior binding, and a slip stitch on the inside. Once all the edges are bound, the lining and straps will get sewn in.

In other news, I have really got to crank up the sewing rate because I found out last week that I got a membership to Costume College (long weekend at the end of July/start August)! That means my Charles II mistress project is DEFINITELY on. I'll want to finish triming my 18th century Robe Anglaise before Costume College.

My sewing calendar for the next few months: finish my 18th century stays in time for my next Williamsburg seminar in January. I'll also need to bring a finished riding habit shirt and skirt (they seem fairly straight forward, and I'm not hand stiching them!). Then, in February, Gatsby's tavern is hosting George Washington's birthday ball, at which point my Regency Ball gown will make its debut. I would like to have an over robe in red velvet and a matching turban to go with it in time. Then, it's time for my Costume Con single pattern project, my vampire costume, and my secret masquerade secret. Hmm...any chance I'll get all of this done?? It's rather ambitious, but I'll give it my best shot!

The Amazing One Week Gown

2008-11-24T19:42:00.007-05:00

Well, as usual my gown has made its "debut" without really being what I would call "finished." I went to an 18th century ball on Saturday night, and worked all week to get my gown to the point where I could wear it. Here I am earlier in the week, having finished the shell of my bodice. When I left the workshop last weekend I was pinned together, so I finished the seams on one side, and then used the finished product as a guide for finishing the second half of the bodice (which was never fitted since we ran out of time).
I was very happy with the way the back turned out. I love the little square formed by the shoulder straps and the nice point at the base of the bodice. And look at how well it's fitting...it's like it was made for me (*gasp*). The hardest part was repining the shoulder straps (Dave was a big help on this) and setting the sleeves into the bodice. Thank goodness for him, because my fitting double was pretty much worthless. My stays couldn't take the strain of squeezing the foam form (I apparently have more of a 'squish' factor than my foam form does).So here's the dress as I wore it on Saturday night. The fabrics match, so it's kind of hard to see, but there is an underskirt that is separate from the dress, and then an over skirt which is pleated and sewn into the bodice.One of the things I'll need to redo is the hem of the over skirt which is a bit too long in a few placed. Then I would like to trim the dress on the bodice and at the sleeve edges. I'm still debating adding a flounce to the under-petticoat, but there's something very nice about it's current simplicity.Here's the back. I'll need to hang the dress on my fitting double to make sure that something funny isn't going on with the pleats on the left side of the bottom point, but for the most part I'm very happy with how the over skirt pleated into the bodice.I took this shot from the side so you could see the silhouette that was popular towards the later part of the 18th century. I'm wearing a false rump. I tried my best to style my wig in the popular 'hedgehog' look. The silk ribbon in my hair is eventually going to be made into a belt for this outfit. I should still have enough leftover silk to use in my wig for a decorative touch.Just for fun, here's a photo of me in my cape, ready to walk out the door. I need to make a pocket for this outfit - I had nowhere to carry a camera, so unfortunately I don't have any pictures from the ball. There were some amazing outfits and wigs that I really wish I had photos of, but I'll just remember that for next time.

Williamsburg Zone Gown Workshop

2008-11-16T23:49:00.008-05:00

I went down to Williamsburg this weekend for yet another fabulous Burnley and Trowbridge workshop. For this workshop, we were constructing backs made out of four pattern pieces, and then fronts that were either sectioned or had drawstrings (like the late 18th century chemise dresses).
Here, I'm at work draping the back of my fitting partner's gown.These were the pattern pieces that when my partner draped the gown for me. A 'quartered back' or four pieces make up the back of the dress. This back style was the basic difference between the Robe Anglaise and the draping back of the Robe Francaise.Here's a photo of me once we finished draping the front of the dress.Finally it was time for pinning and fittings.Many of the dress pieces are simple pinned together at this point, but the back has been completely assembled and finished. This is what the back of the gown will look like (I'll cut a rectangle of fabric...probably 108 inches long, and pleat it until it fits into the dress. The skirt sews right onto the finished bodice).Here's what the front looks like. The stripes are supposed to do that - I didn't mess up when I cut them. You can see the line where they have been pieced together. I'm doing to cover that line with some trim to dress it up a bit. This is what I walked away from the weekend with - I have more sewing to do to finish up assembling the bodice, and the it's up to me to figure out the skirt and petticoat. I'm pretty confident I can do it.
The owner of the Silly Sisters was at the workshop, and brought a period gown from her own collection for us to look at. The stitches were amazing, and it was interesting to see how the seamstress worked with what she had, piecing where she needed to.Here is a close up of the trim. As usual, I love the pinked edges. How pretty! Amazing that it has survived for over 300 years.There is talk of beginning 1812 workshops so that we'll all be ready for the 200th anniversary of the war of 1812. In honor of this, we got to see a replica of early 19th century stays. Given how much trouble I had making mine, I might take this course if they decide to offer it.
There was lots and lots of inspiring costumes on display this weekend. I love this cap made out of silk gauze (what we could call organza today).
The color and detailing on this jacket and petticoat combination are simply gorgeous!
I especially liked the back - it's a pet-en-l'air with a hood. I had never seen that combination before.
Here is a quarter back round gown, worn by one of the ladies that works in the Milliner's shop in Williamsburg. I love the little detailing at the bottom of the dress and the sash.
This gown has the drawstring front that was one of the options in this course. The gown is based off of a portrait that we were shown during the workshop - it's a dead ringer for the original, right down to the purple hem.
This is Janea Whitacre, Mistress and Mantua-Maker of Colonial Williamsburg, the teacher for this workshop. She's wearing a beautiful zone gown with a raspberry colored petticoat.I love how the stripes on the indian print cotton worked out in the back. The bunching that you see is because she is wearing the back bustled up. In the 18th century, this was called a gown "En Polonaise."
Sarah, the apprentice at the Milliner's shop, is wearing a chemise gown with a drawstring front. I LOVE the sash she is wearing. Her hair is styled in the fashionable 'hedgehog' style of the later 18th century.
On Sunday, Dave went to the museum in Williamsburg (somehow neither of us had ever made it there). He wound up on a once a week special tour of the historical fashion display and was very thoughtful and took pictures for me. Pictured above is an amazing stomacher - all the trim and detailing is just amazing.
These are silk quilted petticoats (they would have been worn on the outside of the garment as a skirt...this was not an undergarment).
The green skirt under the red is quilted, but that is lost in the photo. However, I thought that the red gown was pretty.
Here is a quilted petticoat that is meant to be worn as an under petticoat (undergarment). The stays are a late 18th century style (one of the girls in my sewing group made this pair of stays in her own size). They give a bit more of a curve to the front of the body, instead of the ridged straight front that earlier corsets provided.This is an example of the ridged, full boned pair of stays that would mold your body into a triangle torso, and the front is ridged and flat. The keen observer will note that these are the exact pair of stays my blue 18th century stays were patterned from. I actually have the pattern pieces that would create this corset in the size shown here. Pretty neat, huh?

18th Century Stays Progress

2008-11-16T23:39:00.004-05:00

I am continuing to work on the pair of stays from my September workshop. I was really hoping to get them done in time to take them with me to my Williamsburg dress workshop this weekend, but unfortunately the reed I ordered was all wrong and WAY too flimsy. I chatted with other workshop participants and know what to order now, but I was incredibly frustrated.
Here you can see I finished the eyelets. I am doing period correct spiral lacing instead of the traditional criss-cross that I have done in the past. It apparently really affects the fit of the garment, so I decided to stick with the period correct method.I did not hand sew all the channels on the corset (this would have been a year long project otherwise). A bit of work on the machine, but the pieces were all assembled with hand stitching.Here's the corset fully assembled after I sewed in all the boning channels. I had Dave lace me into it for one final test fit, and to mark where a few of the tab slits should go. And here's what it looks like once all the excess fabric has been trimmed away. Not bad, eh? All it needs in bones inserted, leather binding, and then I will line it.Here's what the inside looked like with all the excess seam allowance (this is in case you need to make adjustments to the fit..pretty smart method if you ask me).And here's the inside with the seam allowances trimmed to their final width.

Yes, I'm Still here, and Still Sewing

2008-10-05T19:30:00.005-04:00

Just a quick update to let you know that I AM still sewing, but preparations for my sister's wedding have slowed my progress somewhat, and I had to get my sewing machine serviced which put me out of commission for two weeks. The day I got my sewing machine back I finished Caly's Halloween costume (yes, it is sickeningly adorable when she puts it on, and no, Caly does not like wearing it). No pictures of her in the outfit until Halloween though!
I am currently working on a new set of 18th century side hoops. As I mentioned in my last post, the reeds in my panniers broke. Rather than repair the old set, I'm remaking them out of a stronger and period accurate cotton ticking. I have the fabric cut out, and all the pattern markings have been transferred. I just need to sew them up and order hoop steel tips. I'm using the same pattern since I really do like the shape they give my dresses. I highly recommend JP Ryan's pattern.

An Enviable Pair of Stays

2008-09-08T22:45:00.009-04:00

I went to an 18th century workshop this weekend in Colonial Williamsburg to learn to make a custom fitted pair of stays (i.e. corset). It was the perfect indoor activity for a weekend of hard rain and wind courtesy of Hurricane Hanna. The workshop was run by Burnley and Trowbridge, and taught by Mark Hutter, the Tailor of Williamsburg. Mark brought all sorts of interesting goodies for us to look at - period tools, reproduction stays, and actual baleen (also referred to as whalebone). I had never seen whalebone before, and was fascinated to see it for the first time (and no, we were not using baleen as boning for our stays). The baleen is the black stuff below:

The Stays course was certainly a unique experience, which involved most of us standing around in only our near-transparent shifts for a good part of the day. I give Mark credit though - he was able to make jokes and put us all relatively at ease. We were each paired up with someone that had a similar body type, and we worked with our "Bosom Buddies," as Mark called them, for the rest of the day. We started by taking measurements in the 18th century method - using only a strip of paper and clipping little markings into the paper. No tape measures were used at all.
Next up was the most frustrating portion of the workshop for me. My partner and I chose a corset pattern that was recommended for our era and body types. We received about 10 minutes of oral instructions on how to size up an original 18th century stays pattern. Without any written instructions and no pattern drafting experience, this was a crash course in pattern drafting that had me going pink in the face with frustration. In the end with more than a little bit of help, all was well, though class ended a good hour and forty minutes later than it should have. I left the class on Saturday with pattern pieces chalked onto my corset fabric. Our homework was to baste the chalk outline of the pattern (and to secure all three layers of fabric together). I was a little surprised to learn that we were expected to hand sew (I had not gathered that from the class description). I went ahead and bought linen thread and beeswax to strengthen the thread, and got to work. The next day, we assembled the pattern pieces and wound up with the following product:
I know it doesn't look like much, but this is a PERFECTLY fitting corset, made especially for me. Mark actually sewed us all into our corset so we could be sure we had the right fit, and helped us make a few minor last minute tweaks. It's up to me now to chalk the final pattern, take apart the corset (it's only basted together), rebaste the chalk lines, hand sew the boning channels, insert the boning (I think I'll use ash reed), and bind the corset in white leather that I purchased this weekend. I think this is going to take a couple of months to complete, but I really want to take my time and get a perfect set of stays. If all turns out well, I may use some leftover silk taffeta to cover the corset and make it fancy.

Now, you can't expect a group of costumers to get together in Williamsburg without going out on the town in costume. We went to one of the Williamsburg taverns for dinner and had a great time. I know the photo above is dark, but I like the candle light effect.

Here we are in a bit more well-lit photo. The ladies on each end of the photo are members of my Tuesday Night Costumer's group.

BIG thanks to my husband for driving me down to Williamsburg. I know he enjoyed taking a tour of the local ale factory and playing WoW online in the hotel room, but I know it wasn't his preferred way to spend the weekend. Thanks Dave! Hope you're ready to go back up in November for the gown draping class. :)

Still Working!

2008-09-05T15:15:00.000-04:00

Hey all,

I don't want you to think I've stopped sewing again all of the sudden. I had to take my sewing machine in to be serviced...it was really overdue. It's supposed to take 'several weeks,' but that's not holding me back! That just means more time to cut out patterns.

First up is a Halloween costume for Calypso. I know, I know, it's waaaay too cutsie and something I thought I would never be doing, but I just couldn't resist the urge. Plus, all the neighborhood puppies are getting costumes (seriously), so I just had to get in on that action.

Here's the costume I'm going to make:
It's already cut out, so I'm just waiting for the return of the sewing machine to sew it up (It's one of those super easy, will probably take me an hour or two projects).

Next, I'm going to cut out the cape that I would like to sell on eBay, and then I need to cut out my new side hoops. I have an event in September (movie release of The Duchess) and in November (a historical ball) that I need the side hoops for. Then, I need to cut out the back rump pad pattern that I purchased from Wingeo patterns. I'm taking a Robe Anglaise course in Williamsburg in November, and I'll need a rump pad instead of side hoops for the later 18th century sillouette.

This weekend is VERY exciting: I'm going down to Williamsburg for an 18th Century Stays workshop. By the end I should a complete, or almost complete, set of new stays that have been properly fitted for me (one of my new friends from the Tuesday night costumer club has very generously agreed to bring her second sewing machine for me to borrow). Wohoo!! I should have pictures for you next week.

Cute as a Button!

2008-08-25T21:59:00.004-04:00

I have not lost momentum on my regency gown...I just needed to order the buttons. I didn't want to use the plastic buttons they sell at the fabric store, so I ordered bone china buttons online from a store in Gettysburg. The other options were bone, glass, metal or wood (I discounted mother of pearl because it wouldn't work with my dress), and I was fascinated at the idea of china buttons.Then, of course, I needed to practice buttonholes before going anywhere near my pretty dress. With all the outfits I've done, very few have actually ever required buttonholes. Eyelets, hook and eyes, lacing, drawstrings...these I'm a bit more familiar with. I used some scrap fabric and failed about eight times before I got one decent buttonhole. But I think I finally got the knack:
Note to self on buttonholes: don't forget to put the thread through the special button hole loop on the bobbin. Don't forget to use buttonhole foot or the buttonhole won't work. DO look up sewing machine manual on line to figure out how the five step buttonhole process is supposed to work (that was a BIG help!). Finally, don't slice open thumb while cutting open the holes. It's bad for the thumb, and bad for the silk.

All Dressed Up, No Place To Go

2008-08-12T19:00:00.000-04:00

Well, I'm not technically 'all dressed up' since the dress still needs a few last minute touches, but the Jane Austin ball that I was rushing the dress for sadly sold out weeks in advance. I'll have to come up with something else to do with my Regency gown. I've learned my lesson, though. I immediately purchased tickets for Gatsby's Tavern's next event, the Governor's Ball, as well as my membership for Costume Con 2009. The Governor's Ball is 18th century, so I'll be all set with my 18th century Robe Francaise. I would like to get a wig and restyle it in the tall hair of the 1770's before the ball. I'm also starting to think ahead to possibly signing up for Costume College 2009 as well (which will involve going the Costume Guild West), the Dulles Sewing Expo, and Salon Con. I can't do them all...so we'll see which ones catch my fancy.
So, here's the bodice after it was fitted. Oddly enough, it overlapped too much on top in the back, and too little around the ribcage. I say 'oddly' because my ribcage and waist measurements are significantly smaller in proportion to my bust measurement. I normally have issues with the fit on top. It was easy enough to fix - I re-cut the pattern piece so the bottom was larger, and voila!
The bodice is always the hardest part, so once that was fitted it was just a matter of sewing in the sleeves, waistband, and skirt which I had already previously assembled.
I was very happy with the way the back of the dress turned out. All of those pretty gathers and pleats are perfect for the late 1790's/early 1800's, and I even managed to smush the gathers enough that they all sewed onto the back pattern piece only (apparently the gathers aren't supposed to be on the side back panel at all).
So here's how the dress is looking. This week I've been doing small hand stitched finishing details (like hemming the armbands and sewing in the waistband lining). I then need to do a LOT of practice button holes before attempting them on the dress. I've never been to great at button holes, and needless to say I will not go near my dress until I have mastered this elusive skill. Oh, and I should probably also buy some buttons. :)

One question for my readers - does the dress look sufficiently trimmed? The early Regency is marked by the simplicity of the gowns, so I didn't want to overdo it. I still have enough Sari trim to put a band of gold around the hemline (maybe even two stripes, one large, one smaller on top), or I could put a band of gold down the center front of the gown. Check out the Marquise website or Prints George to see pictures from the era if you're not familiar with gown styles. What do you think?

Bodiced Petticoat Complete

2008-07-20T20:38:00.006-04:00

Here is my finished Regency Bodiced Petticoat:
It's not hemmed yet: I'll do that at the same time I hem my gown. Check out the great Regency silhouette from the side! I was a bit concerned about how the stays were pushing up my cleavage, but with the petticoat over it, I can really start to see how this is going to look with the dress. Very period!
Compare my silhouette to this print by James Gillray entitled "Stays" (it's one from his series titled "The Progress of the Toilette). Not bad, eh?I went ahead and made up a muslin toile of my ball gown. The back fits beautifully:
I'm not so sure about the front. It looks a bit big. Too poofy and too long on bottom. Any opinions? I may cut out one cup size smaller and see if that improves the fit...but one cup smaller will also shorten the back which I think is perfect. It's sort of hard to tell at this point how the fit is...according to the pattern for my size, I'll add a drawstring waistband to the dress so that I can make sure the bottom edge of the Empire waist fits like a glove. Hmm...
I want to make sure I get my toile right before I touch my fashion fabric. There's no more where it came from (handwoven in India), and I've been safeguarding this one-of-a-kind beauty. Here it is draped over Mini so you can get an idea of what the gown will look like. The gold border is only going to be used around the hem, and possibly for the waistband and sleeve bands.

Regency Bodiced Petticoat

2008-07-16T23:48:00.003-04:00

Charging ahead towards the Jane Austin Ball, I'm now assembling my bodiced petticoat. This involved slight altering the Sense and Sensibility regency day dress pattern following these instructions (I can't rave enough about these patterns so far...her online instructions and support are excellent). The key here was that I really needed a dress form before I'd be able to fit the petticoat on myself. And can I say how much I LOVE my dress form.Here's Mini from the front, sporting the finished muslin mock-up. The fit might look a bit funny, but I tried it on myself as well. The dress form doesn't have cleavage where mine will be (Mini can only squish in, not up), and there will be a drawstring that will make the top edge fit.
The back shot shows off the great fit I managed to get very nicely. I'm going to have the petticoat lace in the back instead of buttoning (I'm really not good at button holes...plus, there's no way I could button up my back, while I might be able to lace myself up).

I am not adding any boning to the petticoat because I am not using it as a substitute for the period stays (some reenactors choose to only wear the bodiced petticoat under their Regency dresses). I've cut out the very fine batiste I ordered way back while we were still living in Poland, and assembled the bodice and the lining. Next up: I'll add the drawstring casing and sew the two layers together before adding the petticoat skirt.

I Know What you Did This Weekend!

2008-07-12T23:15:00.002-04:00

I most definitely have caught the sewing bug. In addition to helping one of my friends sew her civil war costume (and now a Regency costume as she gets sucked into my world), I've been busy to. Remember Mini? Well, she's finally finished and ready to get to work:
Mom helped me fit the cover last summer (that was NOT as easy as their 12 step plan made it sound). I got it out this weekend and finally put it on the foam dummy to make the final adjustments (even after it fits you, you generally have to take out a few more inches because of how strong the foam is). It finally is a double of me! Mini is now sporting my Regency stays, because I'm going to fit my bodiced petticoat on her as I work on it this week. Let me tell you what a joy it was squishing the resistant foam even more with the stays! The Jane Austin ball is in early August, so I'm making my Regency ball gown from the Sense and Sensibility pattern out of the white Sari I brought home from India. I only wish I could have gotten a head start on it this weekend, but after getting Mini all set up today (Sunday) I suddenly didn't feel so great and wound up sleeping most of the afternoon away.
In other news, G Street fabrics had an Ubber sale this weekend (up to 70% off), plus I had a 25% off coupon for one already reduced item. Missy came with me, and we tore through the fabric store for a good four hours, hunting for deals. Above (the green cotton velvet) was an AMAZING find in the $2 bin. I can't believe it was there - over six yards! I got a coordinating satin to line it with, and am planning on auction this one on ebay. At that price, I can actually turn a profit! I went ahead and bought some more baby flannel as well - I have enough left over materials that I'm making another Gainsborough hat to auction off (this time in left-over pink taffeta from my Robe Francaise). I'll let you know when they go on sale. All proceeds go towards my Costume Con 2009 fund.
My 18th century pocket hoops on one their last legs. Some of the reed boning snapped in the last move, and during the Frederickburg event, some of the boning started poking through the channels. Apparently a much better fabric selection is cotton ticking, and striped ticking was the favored look of the 18th century. Again, a great price, so I can remake my JP Ryan pocket hoops.The pictures above are for a new 18th century outfit. The cotton print (on the left) I picked up in Amish country for $4 a yard, and is going to be an 18th century pet-en-l'air. The pink is going to be for the skirt, and is a poly bengaline/faille that I spotted this weekend at G Street Fabric. I almost never use poly fabrics anymore, but it was a great price, it's a fairly convincing silk imitation, and the color matched beautifully. All of the silk options started in the $15 a yard (even on sale), so I decided this would work out. I already have the patterns I need - I'm going to reuse my JP Ryan Robe a la Francaise pattern, but make the Pet en l'Air view instead (it's more like a jacket than a dress).This was another Amish country find. It's a plum-colored plaid in homespun cotton from India (again...an amazing price at about $4 a yard). I saw it and fell in love with it. It's going to be the fabric I use for a civil war day gown instead of a visiting dress like I mentioned in my last planning post. I still have my silk for the visiting dress...not sure which one I'll make up first. Depends on my mood I suppose.
Perhaps one of the luckiest finds ever, this was another Amish country purchase. I needed a fabric for the forepart of the Tudor gown (mentioned in my last planning post), but I kept only finding silk damasks that were $50 a yard and completely out of the question for my budget. I found five yards of the pictured fabric in a $2 remnant bin. This fabric would be at least $25 a yard in a fabric store. I don't know what it's made out of - I'm fairly certain it isn't silk. Most likely some sort of a cotton/poly blend. At $2 a yard, who cares?

For anyone who's eyes are bugging at all the fabric: this is how I keep the costs of my hobby down. I always have about 10 project in mind, and I hunt for suitable fabric during sales. If the fabric I want isn't there, the project goes on hold (for example - the wool was all overpriced, and the colors were all wrong, so the 18th century riding gown is on hold). So...yes, it's a lot of fabric, but I'm probably set for the next year, with the exception of Costume Con purchases.

Williamsburg Tailorshop

2008-07-04T14:49:00.003-04:00

I've been holding off on this post for a few days because I wanted to have my completed Chemise a la Reine featured for a few days. As always, my favorite stop in Williamsburg is the Tailor's shop. There's always so much to look at, and the displays change. Check out the full side hoops hanging on display in the store!There was also a pair of Stays (I recognize the JP Ryan pattern) and a small set of pocket hoops (the red plaid hanging on the rope). They were so small, I wondered if they were maybe for a child, but I didn't get the chance to ask. In the background, you can see a white Robe a la Francaise muslin example on display.
I got really excited when I spotted the Calash hat (it's green and red in the upper corner). These hats were very large and were wired so it would stand tall and accommodate the hairstyles of the day.
There was a beautiful silk waistcoat in progress that was on display. I didn't get the best photo, but I just love this picture of the projects the tailor is working on, and the bolts of fabric in the background.Here, the tailor is sitting cross-legged on top of a table in his store window. This was apparently the preferred way for tailors to work. It was comfortable, gave them room to spread out their project, gave them the best natural lighting, and displayed their work to the passing public. I loved the men's silk dressing robe he was working on (I think these are called banyon's). They were introduced as trade with the orient became more common, and were acceptable casual clothing.

I could be mistaken, but I believe the gentleman is the tailor who will be teaching the 18th century stays workshop that I will be attending in September through Burnley and Trowbridge.

Completed Chemise a la Reine

2008-07-01T21:30:00.002-04:00

Well, it might have been 4 am the day of the event, but I did manage to finish this project! My living room still looks like a sewing disaster area, but here is the final product (okay, okay, no project is ever final...I'd like to go back and lengthen the hem and permanently sew on the arm ribbons):I think I might be wearing my rump a little bit too low, and I was disturbed to see that this style wasn't particularly flattering on my body-type. I don't know why I'm surprised - it's essentially a 4 yard tube gathered around me with draw-strings. It was bound to add some unwanted bulk. I was, however, very pleased with the sash, the hat (isn't it at a nice jaunty upturned angle?), and my wig.The pattern left a few things to be desired (though it did get the job done). First of all, the pattern called for 60 inch wide fabric. I looked everywhere, but could only find 45 inch wide fabric, so I had to piece together my gown. While I was cutting it out, I happened to measure the width of the pattern piece that required the afore mentioned 60 inch wide fabric - it was 72 inches wide!!! I can't imagine how frustrated I would have been had I purchased 60 inch fabric, only to find out that it wouldn't work or that I hadn't purchased enough fabric.

The next problem came when I realized that there were no instructions on how to finish the upper back edge of the gown. The lady from reconstructing history was very kind and wrote me back with instructions on how to finish them, but I was in such a time crunch that I had forged ahead making it up on my own. My top closure drawstring runs all the way around the top edge of the gown - the front, the shoulder straps, and the back. Apparently I should have created separate casings for the front and the back, and finished the shoulder straps by simply roll hemming them. I may still go back and fix this.

The pattern also called for me to sew the gathering casings as one of the first steps (just after cutting out and assembling the dress pieces). The result was my underbust and waist casings were not at the right spot. In my opinion, the better construction technique would have been to start by gathering the top edge casings, sew on the shoulder straps, and then try on the dress with the undergarments in order to mark the correct placement for the waist and underbust casings. Again, I am definitely considering unpicking my stitches and fixing this.

My final gripe on the pattern - no illustrations whatsoever. For a $30 pattern, that's a lot of problems...and I think my points are pretty valid. Unfortunately, it's currently the only pattern available for the Chemise a la Reine, and in the end I was able to make-do. Here's a final shot of me in period surroundings:

Hat Construction Footnotes

2008-07-01T21:00:00.000-04:00

Well, as expected this project turned into a last minute dash, and about half way through I stopped having time to record what I was doing. However, I thought the hat construction process was pretty neat, so I'm posting what documentation I do have.

I started out by cutting out buckram pattern pieces and sewing the hat brim and hat tops into the correct shape:Next up, I hand-sewed millinery wire along all the edges of the hat to maintain its shape:I purchased baby blanket felt to interline the hat. I used a combination of stitching and spray-on craft glue to attach the wool to the buckram:Sadly, that's all the photos I have. The next step was to repeat the process for the interlining with my outer-layer fashion fabric. Once that was done, all the hat pieces were finally assembled (this is when it really started to look like a hat). The final steps were binding the edge of the brim, lining the hat, and decorating the lat. I chose ostrich feathers, pheasant feathers, and a blue taffeta bow. I'll have to get a photo taken at a better angle to really show off the hat, but here's the final product:

Afternoon Petticoat and Rump

2008-06-20T21:12:00.004-04:00

Funny how some things really start to go together quickly after you've made similar projects. Today, I managed to cut out and complete the false rump and petticoat for my Chemise a la Reine. The first try at the rump was HUGE and practically stuck straight out from the back like a bustle. That's probably because the tutorial I found was intended for Elizabethan use instead of 18th century. I managed to cut it down a few times, and I think I have found the gentle sloping 'poof' at the back that I was looking for. It might still be a bit big...I don't know. There's still time to change my mind and make it smaller.The side shot below shows a different angle of the rump, as well as a good shot of the petticoat I made. I used my bolt-o-muslin (best purchase ever!) to make the easiest petticoat ever. I cut 4 lengths 45 inches long, sewed them into a tube, gathered them, and put a waistband on top. There are instructions on how I made them here. I'm not going to hem the petticoat until I finish the dress. I want to make sure that I'm happy with the size of the rump under the dress before hemming anything. Full steam ahead - I'm cutting out my dress next!!

Chemise a La Reine Gameplan

2008-06-20T15:15:00.002-04:00

Here is my inspiration for my next project. This is going to have to be one of the quickest ensembles I've ever put together. I'm going to the "Under The Redcoats" event in historic Williamsburg in a week and a half. In that time, I need to make a false rump, a petticoat, the dress, sash, and my Gainsborough hat. The good news is I have most of the supplies I need, and sewing is already underway.

Here's the pattern I will be using, and below is the beautiful sheer voile I found at Dharma trading co. I'm amazed at how finely woven it is!

This pretty blue taffeta will be the sash and bows for the decor on both the Chemise and the hat. The black silk taffeta will be the hat covering and lining.

Here is my hat inspiration. This is Georgiana, the Duchess of Devonshire, painted by Gainsborough (yes, that's why the hats are called 'Gainsborough' hats). There's a movie coming out about her in August starting Kiera Knightly...most know for her infamous menage-a-trois living arrangement. Fascinating historical person who directly imported the Chemise a la Reine from France (she was friends with Marie Antoinette), and also happens to be a direct ancestor of the late Princess Diana.
And here is the hat pattern. I've never made a hat, so this should be an interesting project (hold your breath that all goes well). It might not be done before next weekend. The millinery wire I need is stuck in the mail (tornadoes and such in the middle of the country are causing a lot of flight delays). I've already cut out the buckram frame, but can't assemble it any further until the wire arrives. Here's a gist of the shape:

I made this false rump pattern from instructions I found on the internet. Now we'll see how it looks. I always find that bum rolls/false rumps are pretty tricky. They can make you look like a plateau at the waist if you're not careful, and of course, they are supposed to be proportional to your body (the smaller you are, the larger the rump...the larger you are, the smaller the rump). It's almost a science trying to find the right rump to body ratio. We'll see how that goes.

Gravity Suspended

2008-06-15T22:36:00.006-04:00

I have completed my regency chemise and corset. I think the chemise is one of the finest items I've made the date. By this, I don't mean my favorite, I just mean that it is high quality fabric that was painstakingly put together until I don't think there's a thing I would have done differently. The fit is perfect, and the drawstring neckline is really going to come in handy with some of my outfits.Next up: the completed Regency short stays (ie corset). As usual, I had fitting issues in the bust area. I even used the gusset inserts for my bra size, the but the cups were left bulging out from the corset. I couldn't even bring myself to take a picture of it. They pointed straight out like a Madonna corset gone all wrong. I solved the problem by running a drawstring along the neckline of corset, and drawing the excess fabric up (I'm not saying the cups were too big...in fact they were too small...I'm saying the cleavage was going everywhere except where they were supposed to). So the fit isn't perfect...the gussets shouldn't be gathered up like that, but it works. I'm now have bodice-busting Regency cleavage. Oh my.
The back of the corset really has an amazing fit - like a glove! If I can only covert the fit of the back of this corset to the longer Mantua Maker Regency stays, fix the shoulder straps (again...worked nicely on this pattern, but not at all on the long corset), and then add a neckline drawstring, perhaps I can finally fix my long Regency Stays.

Regency Corset

2008-06-09T23:41:00.004-04:00

The nice thing about sewing, is that eventually you start to build up a nice stockpile of extra fabric. Thanks to my corset stash, I realized that I actually had everything I needed to make the regency short corset included in the Simplicity Pattern.Here are my selected fabrics for the corset: A white cotton coutil for the outer layer of the corset (leftover from my full Regency Corset), a stiff cotton duck for the interlining (leftover from my 18th century stays), and white cotton from my bolt-o-muslin for the lining.Here are the pattern pieces all cut out. It was surprising how little fabric this corset required. Despite the three layers, the corset is only designed to come to just under the bust: I like to think of it as a cross between a corset and a Wonder Bra.Here are all three layers of the corset, assembled and ready to be sewn together. That was plenty for one night, so the assembling, finishing with bias tape, eyelets, and boning will wait for another night.
As usual with this style of corset, the bust gussets were the most labor intensive part of the activity. Each layer had 4 gussets that needed to be inserted into the corset. The gussets can be very fussy, and they like to wiggle around as you try and sew them in place. I got a bit of a gusset factory line set up, which helped speed the process along.Here's what the outer layer looks like on it's own. This picture is a bit pink, but the corset is actually white. I didn't realize it when I took this shot, but the corset kind of has a bit of a Madonna/Material Girl look to it from this angle. That isn't what it will look like when it is done.

Regency Chemise

2008-06-08T13:05:00.000-04:00

We're finally pretty much moved into our new place, and I caught the sewing bug this weekend. I had the Simplicity Regency Underthings pattern, courtesy of JoAnne's .99 cent pattern sale, and I also had some batiste fabric I picked up at the Fort Frederick Sutler's event. So...The pattern went together surprisingly quickly. Frankly, I thought I'd just get it cut out, but instead I'm almost finished. Check out how nicely the sleeve gussets went in:I've done a project with sleeve gussets before (check out my Tudor Chemise) but it was a bit of a disaster. I couldn't figure out how to make all the flat-felled seams work out around the diamond the gusset forms. Luckily, with a bit of patience and meticulous ironing, this one turned out great! See how neat and tidy my seams are?
The only thing that kept me from finishing is that I don't have any single fold bias tape. I even hemmed the sleeves and bottom already. I thought for sure I'd have some bias tape lying around in my notions box, but no such luck. As soon as I get the tape all that's left to do is sew it around the neckline and then thread a cord through the casing it will form. Then I can lace up the neckline to the exactly the right spot, and voila! One Regency chemise (which will also double quite nicely for my 18th century outfits...no more cheating by wearing tanks under my corset).

I now am highly motivated to get my Regency gowns and undies finished, because I have an event to go to! Gatsby's Tavern is hosting a Jane Austen Ball in August, and I fully intend to be there sporting a fabulous Regency ball gown.

Costume Con 2008

2008-05-02T17:15:00.005-04:00

I wish I could say that I was able to attend Costume Con in San Jose, California, but it didn't happen. However, Kendra of Demode (my favorite costume website) DID attend, and was in the group that won best in show. She and a group of her friends dressed up as the ladies in this famous portrait of Empress Eugenie of France and her ladies in waiting:Check out their YouTube presentation here. Simply amazing. This is exactly the kind of thing I would love to do. I just wish I had a readily available group of historical costumers. Clearly, I need to move to the Greater Bay Area and join their guild.

The good news is I just might have a chance to meet some of the ladies from GBACG next year, because Costume Con 2009 is going to be held in Baltimore, MD. WOHOOOOO!!!! I finally have a shot at attending THE costuming event of the year, and meeting some people who share my quirky hobby. Now I just need to find a friend to drag along so I don't go all shy since I don't know anyone there. I definitely not taking part in the historical competition my first time around. I feel like you really need to go see what's expected before putting yourself up on stage. Still, there will be plenty of other competitions, workshops, socials, and balls to go around. Plus, what a fun and exciting theme: Vampires, Villains, and Vixens. So...who wants to go with me??

Fort Frederick 18 Century Market

2008-04-28T20:40:00.000-04:00

I'm still waiting on my sewing stuff to show up, but my husband was really great and packed an outfit for me when I heard about the Fort Frederick 18th century fair. That was a really funny international call - my poor husband overseas, digging through my costume bins, trying to figure out what on earth I meant by 'curacao.' He did a beautiful job, and I had everything I needed to be period from head to toe (I got to wear my new silk stockings, silk kerchief, and shoes).
I was happy that everything still fit. I haven't worn it since I sewed it way back in 2004. It was about time this costume had an outing! I love the picture (above) that shows off how I'm wearing my hat turned up.
My friend Missy from college came with me to the fair (along with poor Dave who was a very good sport the entire day...though we did find some powder horns and bows that struck his interest). It turns out that Missy is a big history buff, and a blossoming period fashion enthusiast (I think her preferred eras are medieval and civil war). It was wonderful to have someone with me to ooh and aah over the craftsmanship that we saw.
The fair was an enormous gathering of 18th century vendors, known as 'sutlers.' It was hosted on the grounds of Fort Frederick. The Fort was open, and we really intended to see the fort as well, but frankly there were so many tents to see that we didn't get a chance. There were some amazing dresses, accessories, fabrics, and patterns. It was a bit overwhelming at times. Above, I'm admiring hand quilted petticoats and pockets.
The really neat event of the day was meeting the Silly Sisters. I have admired their work and website for many years. I always look at websites when I'm looking for ideas, and they always had wonderful 18th century clothing. I was standing in line for drinks when I noticed the amazing quality and workmanship of the woman's gown, in line ahead of me. I told her how wonderful it was, and asked if she had made it. It turned out she was one of the Silly Sisters. I promptly tracked down their tent so that I could be photographed with both of the sisters. There business was hopping, but they were very kind and even answered a few questions I had about costuming for business instead of pleasure.
Finally, I just had to put up a few of the neat things we saw during the day. There were quite a few little ones in costume (one as young as three months). It was adorable seeing them toddle around in their long gowns, but I thought this shot was priceless. What a neat way to ride around and keep the sun off.
This woman was selling pottery, but it was her spinning that drew us to her tent. She was spinning a very fine grey wool, and then showed us a finished pair of thick wool socks she had made from the yarn. She had a partially knitted pair of socks sitting next to her as well. There's something very soothing about sitting and watching spinning.

I managed, for the most part, to contain myself and avoid purchasing everything is site (no easy feat...a lot of the period organdy coifs were very tempting). I came home with a pattern I'd been looking for (wohoo...no shipping charges), enough batiste to make my regency chemise, and a clasp for my black cloak. Our stuff arrives this week, so once we sort out the chaos, hopefully there will be some sewing to show.

2008 Costume Planning

2008-04-19T22:21:00.009-04:00

I've been doing some long term thinking about how I would like to add to my costume wardrobe this year and further in the future. Regency is obviously first on the list because that's what I'm currently working on. I thought an overdress would be nice to add some color to the plain white day dress I'm going to make:When the dresses are done, I would like to make a Spencer jacket. I already have a regency straw bonnet waiting to be covered with fabric and have ribbon added on.Next, I would like to move on to my late Tudor gown. I have already purchased the fabric, and researched the French kirtle and gown in the newly released Tudor Tailor. You might remember that I had already purchased a pattern for my Tudor gown, but the fit was all wrong (five inches too big on each side up top, and a 2 inch gap at the waist...makes no sense given how large chested I am). I had lofty ideas of trying to draft a pattern from the Tudor Tailor graphs, but having no pattern drafting experience whatsoever I thought this might not be a good idea. So, I'm hoping a birthday present from London will rescue my efforts. It would be great to have this done in time for the Maryland Renaissance festival in the fall.I have plenty of silk for a Civil Way visiting dress, so I think that should be my next project. I haven't decided for sure on which pattern I will use, but I'm leaning towards this one:Vague notions for beyond 2008:I was thinking I should make a new set of 18 century stays. I was never pleased with the way my strapless set turned out, and I like the Reconstructing history pattern.Next up is a Robe Anglaise. I'm having a love affair with the 18th century, probably fueled by the costumes in Marie Antoinette, but also because they tend to flatter my figure. I also have a place to wear them since I live near Williamsburg.I would like to make a chemise gown from the 18th century, also known as a Gaulle or a Chemise a la Reine.I might make a riding/hunting gown in red or hunter green wool or velvet. I've always loved this style since I saw Dangerous Liaisons and The Brotherhood of the Wolf. It would be better for outdoor events. I always worry about trudging around outside in my silk gown.

In the much more distant future, I hope to move into Venetian and Italian Renaissance dresses (I've got to learn how to draft patterns before launching into that), medieval dresses, and bustle dresses. The bustle era is actually my favorite. My reasoning for putting it off is I want to hone my sewing skills before making my dream gowns.

Regency Underthings

2008-04-19T22:06:00.004-04:00

It's been too long since I've had anything to blog about. It's certainly not because I haven't had an interest in sewing. Since my last update, my husband and I have relocated twice (both moves were international moves. My sewing machine and projects can't exactly come on the plane with me when I'm limited to 50 lbs of luggage for the 3 months it takes for our stuff to catch up with us, so I have been missing my favorite hobby. It's given me lots of time to plan and think ahead.

I'm now back in the US...waiting still on my sewing supplies to arrive. I'll then have to figure out how I'm going to set up my sewing area and get everything organized before I can start sewing. I'm thrilled, though, that for the first time in about three years I can just pop out to my local sewing store if I run out of something, instead of having to wait three weeks while I order it online. My favorite fabric store is even nearby. Yay!!

So here are my current costuming priorities:

#1. Fix my regency corset. It's still not quite right. Thank you to Jessamyn of the Regency Costume Companion for her helpful suggestions on how I might correct the fit. I was thrilled to see that she had visited my site - I have consulted her website many times while researching the Regency Era. She suggests that I turn the corset straps to an angle so they will not cut into my shoulders, and will stay put a bit better. I'll give that a try and see what happens.

#2. Given how rigid the long regency corset is, I'm going to try a short version of Regency Stays as a back up. Simplicity had it's annual .99 cent sale, and I snagged their Regency undergarments pattern.Since the pattern comes with a chemise, I'll go ahead and make it up, along with the bodiced petticoat, and then move on to the two dresses I would like to make. I have a friend who really wants a regency outfit for Jane Austin outings, so this will all be good practice for her gowns.

Finished Corset

2007-02-17T10:19:00.002-05:00

The corset is all finished! When we left off, I was sewing in boning channels. Here's a picture of me inserting the boning:
And next I pinned on the binding to finish the corset's edges:

Next came marking the eyelet holes with washable ink:Then I used an awl to make eyelet holes:And then I sewed eyelets by hand for hours and hours. About six hours if I add up the movies I was watching in the background (Casino Royal, Harry Potter, and Memoirs of a Geisha). Thank goodness for the three day weekend!So here's the final product. The neckline is definitely doing what it's supposed to do:The fit is much better, though it's still not perfect. I can't figure out exactly what's wrong, but the bust line isn't fitting quite right, and the shoulder straps are too big or set too far out (you can see that they're wanting to inch to the left off my shoulders in the picture below). I'm not quite sure how to fix that.
Overall a pretty good fit. I hope it looks accurate underneath a regency gown. I'm concerned about the corset line on the bust showing through the gown, and what those straps are going to do...

Maybe the bodiced petticoat will resolve these issues. The only way to find out is to make up the petticoat!

Saved by Fabric Surplus!

2007-02-16T12:41:00.001-05:00

My regency corset project continues thanks to an extra yard of cotton coutil in my fabric bin. I honestly have no idea where it came from. It must have been extra from another corset kit.

So, I've started the Corset over again, this time one size up. I think I've finally gotten the hang of putting in the gussets. I guess the first one was kind of like the rough draft (I know, I know, that's what the mock-up is supposed to be...but this project took two rough drafts).
I toyed with adding an additional hip or front stomach gusset, but in the end I felt that it wouldn't be needed. If the gussets made the corset too big at the hips it would be ruined. I can always go back and add a gusset later if I still need one (though it would really be a nuisance!).
The picture above shows the corset lining (in the front) and the outer corset (in the back) before I sewed them together. All of the bust and hip gussets seem to be lining up nicely. The gussets were an issue with the first version and I wound up having to reinsert most of the gussets. Here's the assembled lining and shell pinned together. Now I'm reinforcing the corset's seams using a technique known as 'stitching the ditch.' You sew the lining and the shell together by carefully stitching though all the layers along the seams. Here's an illustration:
Up next is adding the boning channels. Then come the dreaded hand-bound eyelets.

Alterations and Frustrations

2007-02-14T16:09:00.001-05:00

The Regency Corset has been advancing at a fast pace. I tried on the lining one last time and decided that the bust gussets needed to be lengthened because the bottoms of the gussets did not reach the bottom of my bust. I ripped out the old gusset panels, drafted a new longer version of the gussets, cut deeper into the corset, and sewed in the new panels. The old gusset is on the right compared with the new longer gusset shown below. I'm pretty proud of this alteration, and the lining fits much better now:So the next step was to repeat the process with the satin coutil, sew the lining and satin coutil together, sew in boning channels, insert the boning, bind the raw edges of the corset, and finally comes the painstaking hand sewing of the lacing eyelets. It took me about three days to accomplish these steps (sorry...I didn't take pictures of this phase...I was excited to finish).

As soon as the last eyelet was finished, I begged Dave to lace me into the corset. The picture is horribly unflattering, but here was the final result (Check out Captain Picard in the background):
It may not be as visible from the front, but from the back it's clear that after all my careful fitting, the darned thing is one size too small. Regency corsets are designed to have a wider gap in the back...but my gap was a few inches beyond the intended gap. You can also tell if you look at the shoulder straps which are cutting into my shoulders because they're too far forward. On a more positive note, at least you can tell that the corset is doing what it was intended to do.
Although my bust line was rather...frightening.
Resewing the seams to try and size the corset up isn't a great option. I had a very small seam allowance to begin with, and the corset really needs to go up an entire size. I have enough satin coutil to sew a second corset, but I'll need more cotton coutil. I'll reuse the busk and boning. I plan to raid my fabric supply and make sure I don't have enough coutil from an old project laying around, and if not I'll have to reorder.

Regency Corset

2007-02-12T16:32:00.001-05:00

Wohoo! I'm actually sewing again. I'm making up my Regency Corset (the pattern to the right). I did a careful fitting with the Swedish Interfacing, but I must admit I'm concerned about the fit. Corsets are rather difficult to fit since you have to squeeze the back together very tightly to see how well it's going to fit. My Swedish interfacing would rip if I squeezed it like that...so I measured and measured again. All that's left is to cross your fingers. Here's the made up lining in cotton coutil:
Many people make bodiced petticoats to get the regency look, but that isn't an option with my figure. Instead, I need to make the full Regency corset, complete with gussets, boning, and a busk up the middle. I'm using the Mantua Maker pattern which according to everything I've read on line is supposed to be the best. I'm using cotton coutil for the lining and the outer layer is satin coutil. The bones are all steel (not period, but I'm not interested in using cord or reed, and plastic boning won't hold it's form so it seems like the best alternative).
Here is another photo of the lining to give you an idea of the corset's shape. Katherine, another historical seamstress, has also sewn a corset from this same pattern, so you can see her version here for an idea of the finished product.

New Toys

2007-02-11T16:20:00.001-05:00

My trip to India and Christmas have helped build up my sewing supplies a bit, and I'm off and running again!! Here are a few of my new toys:
Swedish interfacing. I think it's better described as sewable tracing paper. Basically, I trace my pattern piece, cut out the tracing paper, and sew up the tracing paper to test the fit of the garment. If it doesn't fit, I haven't cut out my pattern (once you cut it you can't change the sizes very easily) so I just trace a different size and start again. Here you can see me using the Swedish interfacing pieces to cut out the fabric (which had earlier been sewn together to test the fit and then taken apart).
Meet my evil twin: Mini. This is a Uniquely You fitting form. I've borrowed the picture from the Uniquely You website instead of mine due to vanity issues...that, and I haven't fitted mine yet. It's made out of squishy foam and comes with a cover that zips over the foam. You fit the cover tightly to your body shape, and then zip it over the foam to create a duplicate of your body shape. The great thing about this dress form is that it squishes...so I can lace up a corset over the form and get the right shape/measurements.

The only problem with the fitting form is that the cover needs to be fitted: once the cover is fitted, it squeezes the foam into your shape. Unfortunately the reason I need a fitting double is because I can't fit things on myself. Which is why I ordered a fitting double. Which I now can't use because it has to be fitted. Harrumph. I will probably need to call in my highly trained fitting expert on this one (aka Mom).

Fabric Surplus

2007-02-09T08:38:00.001-05:00

Get ready!! The sewing projects are coming!!!

Thanks to my trip to India, I now have all kinds of fabric for new projects. I can't purchase any patterns until after Christmas since a couple are on my Christmas list, but here is what I have purchased:
This pretty purple/blue fabric will be made into a civil war visiting dress, and I got a contrast peach fabric. I need to find almost 100 yards of ribbon for trim (!!) before I can make up the outfit. I already have a pattern for this one - it's a Simplicity pattern (#4510) that I haven't made up yet. Check out pattern 3855 while you're there...it's brand new and looks interesting. The Simplicity patterns all seem to fit very well so I expect it will go together fairly smoothly (knock on wood). I was thinking this would be great with my civil war bonnet.
This simple white silk will be made into a Regency day dress. I'm going to keep it very simple, and later on will make an overdress so it isn't just the stark white dress. I've always loved the picture of Madame Recamier, and this should be a close approximation. Plus, I have a new Kashmir embroidered shawl to go with the final product - it's going to look so period!
Next, I got a silk sari that will be made into a Regency ball gown. I bought the other silk before I saw this sari. If I'd know I was going to find the perfect white ball gown fabric, I might have purchased a different color for the day dress, but oh well. :) I'll put the border along the hem of the dress and use the heavily embroidered portion of the sari for the bodice.
Projects currently on hold are: Star Wars Padme nightgown, modern ball gown for the marine ball, and my Tudor dress. The Padme pattern pieces are so large, I'm going to have to cut up the pattern pieces in order to cut the fabric and I got a little intimidated by this. Both the ball gown and the Tudor dress need a lot of fitting rework, and I can't do that until I get a fitting double. The Tudor dress pattern is pretty disastrous (the fit was all wrong) so I'm thinking of ordering a new pattern. This pattern from reconstructing history just came out and is based off of the patterns in the Tudor Tailor. These costumes look amazing, and I would love to try them out.

**Please note that due to issues with blogger I was unable to attach any pictures to this post for the last several months. The original blog was written before Christmas, and the blog content is somewhat out of date. The seamstress apologizes for the technical delays which have since been corrected with the newest version of blogger.

Halloween: The Main Event

2006-11-04T16:01:00.002-05:00

lIf you want to read about our Halloween events, please visit the Dave and Melissa blog. I'm mostly just posting pictures of all the little ghouls in their Halloween finery made by yours truly. little Sophie dressed as a Pea in the Pod...her costume was flannel wool, but she's been bundled up again...so she's the pink pea-in-the-pod. She looks pretty comfortable, wouldn't you say?

Nadia made a great belly dancer! She looks like she'll be able to grow into this costume over the next year as well.
Lilly, my little cheetah, was not having a good night, so this is the best picture I could manage (you can't see, but she's actually sobbing here). I saw her at four different times during the evening, but she just wasn't a happy camper...Halloween was a bit overwhelming.
Lilly's older brother Adam had a fabulous time and really hammed it up for the camera. I really loved making this knight costume!
David and Dave, showing off their matching Jedi costumes. Dave needed a padawan braid to really make this pair costume go over the top, but oh well. There's always next year.

Halloween Countdown

2006-10-10T13:59:00.001-04:00

Well, I haven't been posting too much lately because there has been a surprising amount of productivity. I am almost done with my Halloween orders for 2006 - this year I've made 2 complete Jedi costumes, a knight, a cheetah, a belly dance, and a pea-in-the-pod is still in progress. If I get all that done, I have the stuff for a Padme costume so I can match Dave. THEN it's on to my marine ball dress - the fabric is en route.

Here are some final product pictures (I promise to chase down the kids on Halloween to get cute pictures of them IN the costumes):

The belly dancer costume - I'm still working on the hat/veil. She also has a coin scarf to go with it. The close up shows the jingle bells I sewed into the neckline so the costume makes a bit more noise. I also love the beads around the bra top.
The top and the harem pants. I stuck on some little gemstones in the yoke of the pants. The mesh fabric on the top was a real bear to work with.
The knight costume - complete with silver stretch helmet! The costume is duck cotton, felt, and gold gimp for decoration. I really like the fusible interfacing that irons right on (that's how the lion was attached).
Here's a close-up of the "boots" - they're quilted gold lame and fit over sneakers.
Here's the rather impressive cheetah costume - it comes with shoe covers, mittens, and a hat (along with the jumper). I didn't get a good shot of the tail...but there is one!Different angle that shows off the fake fur. I thought the fake fur was going to be really horrible to work with. Other than making a bit of a mess when cutting, it wasn't any harder/easier to work with. It did get bulky at some seams, but you could just cut off the fur to make the fabric thinner.

Baby Blue Bonnet

2006-09-18T15:11:00.001-04:00

If you have been following along on my other blog, you will know that I purchased a bonnet while I was home in the US. We made a special trip up to Gettysburg for the sole purpose of buying a bonnet. The first stop was a disappointment: it's reputed to be the best shop in town, but the owner looked down her nose at me and said I should only try on bonnets if I was 'serious about buying.' We drove 75 miles to look at bonnets, but apparently that wasn't 'serious' enough. After putting up with her evil eye every time I tried a bonnet on, we left empty handed.

I was about to give up when we came accross a brand new clothing store! The store only had two bonnets, but they were cheaper than the first stop, made of silk, and great little hand-sewn details. I fell in love with the blue spoon bonnet, and here it is:

I see a matching dress in the distant future (distant, because the Jane Austin dress is first).

Finished, This Jedi Robe Is

2006-09-13T16:40:00.002-04:00

I really like Simplicity's new Star Wars pattern. I decided to make it out of Silk Noil (sometimes known as raw silk). There were times the silk was frustrating to work with, but this really only came up when I was trying to sew it to interfacing. The final result is great, and Dave has decided he wants one too. I've already ordered the fabric for him, and if time permits I might make a Padme costume I've had sitting around. It all depends on how much time I have left once my halloween commissions are in. Here is a picture of the entire Jedi costume:

Jedi Robe II

2006-07-30T12:07:00.001-04:00

You may or may not remember, but I have made a jedi cloak in the past. It was the same year attack of the clones came out, and the pattern companies still hadn't gotten their acts together in creating star wars costumes. As part of my Halloween business, I have received a commission to make a complete Jedi outfit. I had a snafu obtaining the silk I needed on eBay, and as a result I'm still waiting for the fabric to make the tunic. However, the cloak is done. It's Simplicity's new Star Wars pattern (#4450)based on several costumes from Revenge of the Sith (there's a Padme pattern that was cut from the movie...I don't understand why they marketed a dress that was not even included in the movie).
The cloak is made of flannel wool. The pattern was very easy, and went together quickly. I especially like the shoulder pleats. I tried to mimic this on the last cloak I made, but it was much more successful on this particular pair.

**A note on Fabric yardage - the pattern says you need 7 yards of 60 in. fabric. I got 8 yards of 45 in fabric. I had to refold the fabric the wide way, and managed to make this cloak out of less than 4 yds. Save yourself some money and order less fabric. I think Dave might get a cloak of his own this year....

Tudor Chemise

2006-06-19T09:03:00.001-04:00

I officially declare this project finished. I ordered blackwork trim to sew around the edges (and I will sew it on), but I'm not making any more alterations.

This was by far the most infuriating project ever. If you don't recall from the previous post, none of the pieces were fitting together nicely, and then I discovered I'd cut the neck hole too big. Mind you, everything else about the chemise fits. But the square neckline in my size is so big it fell half way down my chest. What gives?I made a mock-up of the neck hole, and starting with a size 4, worked my way up. The size I finally chose was a whole five sizes smaller than the chemise I made. I took off the too-big-neck facing and then cut the smaller-size neck facing. Here's the mock-up: I ran two gathering stitches around the square neck and made it smaller to fit the facing. I had to repeat this process one more time (even though my mock-up was the right size, the pattern piece I cut was larger...I cut it from the same pattern size...again, WHAT GIVES??). Here's mock-up #2:The finished product fits, but the gathers pretty much ruin that nice square neckline. Harrumph. All the seams are finished so I might decide to wear it inside out with the neck facing visible. Inside out the facing lies flat and makes the chemise look more like it was meant to be.

Such a horrible experience. I had been contemplating making a Renaissance corset from this pattern, but after the problems with the chemise there is no way I'm going to dive into that mess. I have most of the fabric to start the Tudor dress (that the chemise is meant to go with), but again...I'm having a fitting issue, and I'm not sure I can solve it without a fitting double.

Wedding Dress Update

2006-06-19T08:45:00.000-04:00

Many of you (by 'many', I mean my handful of faithful readers) have requested pictures of the "Dresszilla" wedding dress. I aim to please, so here are pictures of the dress to date:I took a close look at my seams and needlework, and I'm actually very pleased with the way the dress is coming together. Unique color and design choice aside, the fabric looks very nice and everything is coming together nicely. The dress is dupioni silk and is interlined with silk organza. We sewed on the freshly finished beaded lace this weekend:

The dress is supposed to fit in with the Bride's Renaissance wedding theme. Instead of a veil, her mother has made a matching blue Tudor French Hood with a white veil sewn on the back.

There's still some more lace to be sewn around the bodice. Then, I need to assemble the skirt and the bodice. I'm slightly nervous about this due to the weight of the 4 layer skirt. Originally there was only supposed to be three layers: lining, silk, sheer overskirt. Our version is lining, crisp silk, lining, crisp silk. It caused some issues when we gathered the skirt, and I'm expecting more issues when I assemble the skirt/bodice. My sewing consultant (aka Mom) suggested sewing in matching piping to reinforce the bodice edge if I have problems.

Future Projects!!

2006-03-29T13:27:00.001-05:00

The wedding dress project has reminded me that I am a historical costumer, NOT a seamstress. And I'm just dying to get to a few of these projects:1. Finish the Tudor dress - I plan to surmount the neck opening that was made five sizes too big! I will start by taking out the square neck facing, gathering the cut square until the opening is smaller and fits, then cut a new smaller neck facing. It might not make a whole lot of sense, but I think it will work. I still have a horrible impulse to make up a renaissance corset...I have some silk taffeta left over from my Robe Francaise...
2. A Regency Gown, overgown, undergarments and corset. Why, you may ask? Especially, as even I am willing to point out, the empire style is not particularly flattering or forgivng for us curvy ladies. I can't explain it, but Jane Austin has won, and I MUST have one.
3. A medieval gown for the Malbork Siege in June. Dave and I are planning on attending, and I want to go in costume. I have a horrible confession to make - I want to BUY this dress. I don't know very much about the medieval period, and am not very impressed by the patterns I've seen. Plus, I fell in love with a gorgeous gown and petticoat on ebay. Maybe with birthday money...it wouldn't be much cheaper for me to make it myself.
4. A long time ago, in a galaxy far far away. For those of you that don't know, I adore the costume designs from the new Star Wars movies. I have my brand, spaking-new, version of Dressing a Galaxy which has great close up shots of the costumes and fabric. And then JoAnns went and had a 99 cent pattern sale AND a sale on bridal satin. So I actually have the fabric and pattern for Padme's nightie. With all those zippers and beads, I can guarantee I'll never sleep in it.

Thy name is Dresszilla

2006-03-29T13:17:00.000-05:00

I actually HAVE been sewing. I needed a bit of a break after my tudor chemise problems (side note: I think I have surmised a good way to salvage the chemise). I had volunteered to help my neighbor make her daughter's wedding dress. I know: I'm certifiably insane.

I have to admit, I don't think I'm ever going to do a wedding dress again. It's complicated, high stress and expensive if something goes wrong, and you have to manage expectations. It's hard trying to convey to people that even though I can sew, I am not a trained seamstress or pattern drafter. I need a pattern to follow, and I want to stick to it. Instead, people always assume you can "just change the sleeves," or "do a different collar," or worse yet, "just whip something up."
Anyway, all that stuff aside, the dress IS coming together nicely. The girl I'm making it for is in town, we've done a few fittings, and everything seems to be fitting. The dress is pictured above. We did actually use a different pattern for the sleeves - a medieval bell cut. The underskirt is almost a navy blue (not my choice, but it's her wedding dress). The overskirt, instead of being transparent, is white dupioni.

Tudor Chemise

2006-02-05T16:04:00.001-05:00

Sigh. This pattern has not been going together as smoothly as it should.

Before I start to rant and rave, let me first say that the pattern pieces fit together very nicely, the pattern itself is very nice. Everything that I have finished looks very beautiful and historically accurate.

My problem with the pattern is the instructions. They have caused several moments of extreme sewing frustration. Examples: pattern pieces in the instructions that don't actually exist; instructions to cut the incorrect number of pattern pieces; interfacing that pops up in the instructions, but which I have not been instructed to cut out; complete lack of cuff assembly directions/illustrations. All this meant that the cuffs that should have taken an hour to assemble took me about 8 hours to complete. After FINALLY finishing the cuffs, I tried to insert the sleeves into the garment. The instructions said "match dots and then gather the sleeve to fit." So, I match the dots...and the dots lined up exactly...there was nothing to gather, because there was no extra fabric. What the **%@? AAARRGHH! I set it aside. I've had enough for today.

I'm concerned that the neck square may be too big. That's not the pattern's fault...it's mine for being too impatient to make a mock-up. The pattern even suggests it so you get the square sized correctly. I just didn't read that part until AFTER I'd cut out the pattern. Oops. Hopefully once I'm corseted it should fit with everything pushed up.

I have enough linen left to make a partlet, so that may be my next project. I'm still very tempted to make the corset...but these instructions have put me off. Maybe I should sign up for the pattern designer's yahoo account and see if others have had the same problems I have.

After the Long Break…

2006-01-21T14:49:00.001-05:00

I give you the plans for my Tudor undergarments! I now have all the velvet I need to make my Tudor gown, and before I order the brocade I need, it’s officially time to start my undergarments.

I’ve won another gift certificate to www.denverfabrics.com. They stopped doing the drawings for certificates recently…maybe because people like me kept winning over and over again. I ordered some beautiful white handkerchief linen.

I was actually almost ready to start cutting out the chemise pattern my mom brought me from the States. However, once I cracked into the instructions, I realized this wasn’t the kind of chemise I wanted, changed my mind, and ordered the Margo Anderson shift pattern.

An added bonus of this pattern is it comes with several other undergarments, including a great corset pattern. I may or may not make up a version of it. Everyone that uses this pattern seems to rave about it. I could make do with my 18th century corset, but it doesn’t quite look right either.

Before I make it, I need to read a bit more about the corset. I’m not sure it will give me the nice conical Tudor shape. Kendra of démodé made this great version of the pattern.

Oodles of Fabric!

2005-11-20T09:35:00.001-05:00

Hi all,

I haven't posted lately because I have been sadly without fabric. However, that is slowly changing! There is TONS of fabric on my Christmas list. I also WON fabric from Denver Fabrics online. I'm not kidding: you can check it out right here (I'm listed as Melissa of Dulles). With my $50 dollar gift certificate, I ordered red and black velvet for my Tudor gown. This is a change in plans, because I originally wanted an all-brocade gown. The gift certificate changed my mind. The red velvet will make up the body of the gown, and the black velvet is for the turned-back undersleeves. I still need to get some gold brocade for the sleeves and underskirt, and some linen for a chemise. Then I can start sewing!!

My father-in-law also made a recent trip to Korea, and bought some silk for me!! World's coolest father-in-law!!! I haven't actually seen the silk yet, but he sent me this picture (look at all that silk!!! It makes me drool!).
The silk is a very pale blue (even though it looks white in the picture). Look at the vendor's hand showing through the silk: it looks almost sheer!! Wohoo!! I'll have to come up with something creative for the silk. It's not as wide as U.S. fabric: probably about 22 inches versus the standard 45 inches. It will require a bit of research and some creative cutting. I can't wait!

Happy Halloween!!!

2005-10-31T17:50:00.002-05:00

Hope everyone had a great Halloween!!
To answer your questions about Poland and Halloween: no, Poland does not do anything Halloween related. A couple of the restaurants in town had a few pumpkins out and offered 'Halloween' special menus, but I didn't see any Halloween parties, etc. One of the Embassy compounds had a special trick or treating for the American kids. The American households decorated and let the kids come around for candy.
I decided to impose myself upon a nice family so I could dress up and hand out candy. I got pictures of all the costumes I made this year, including this great snap shot of Nadia and I!
I didn't make the black shawl I'm wearing...it's actually a cute black cape that I got to wear for fall. When I pair it with a modern boot cut jean and leather boots, it's actually very modern and chic. But it turned into the perfect civil war paletot when paired with my day dress.

Happy Halloween!

3 Hour Leia Costume

2005-10-26T16:08:00.001-04:00

This was supposed to be a nice, easy project that would keep me occupied for a few days, but several events beyond my control turned this into a last minute mad dash.

I decided I really wanted to make the costume out of a polyester double-ply fabric, which is what the original Leia costume was made out of (plus, it's cheap). Knowing I would have to scour fabric stores for weeks in Poland to find this, I decided to order it from Fabric.com 3 weeks ago. I only just received the fabric on Monday. Late Monday night I opened up my package and found only ONE yard of fabric, even though I'd ordered 4 yards.

Plan B: find Polish fabric store, and quickly.

Tuesday, I planned to go to a few stores open late after work, but I had a meeting that kept me out until 8:15. That left today, Wednesday, for everything. The costume had to be finished by Thursday so it could go home for the little girl to wear to school on Friday.
At this point I was panicking because I was in a time crunch. I knew I needed the fabric tonight if I had any prayer of finishing the costume, I was only going to have about 40 minutes at lunch to shop, find a store I could get to on foot, and hopefully luck out and find fabric that worked. Big Kudos to my Polish colleague who gave me several addresses, and Polish vocab words: the second store had what I needed!! phew! Thankfully Princess Leia wore a nice simple dress, and the Simplicity pattern was cut out and sew up in about 3 hours.

Happy Halloween, and may the Force be with you!

Indian Sari

2005-10-20T14:56:00.001-04:00

While not technically a costume, and definitely not 'historical', I got out a sari project this weekend.

This all began after watching "Bride and Prejudice." If you haven't seen it, you really should. It's by the same director as "Bend it Like Beckham," and is another story about westerners encountering India. It's based of off Pride and Prejudice, and was great! I got a kick out of the Indian Ballywood-style dance/song scenes, including songs like "take them to love" and "thank you for getting this marriage into town."
Anyway, the Indian-themed weekend made me want to play dress-up, and I remembered that my dad had brought me back a sari from one of his trips, and it was buried at the bottom of my fabric box. I got it out, roll hemmed the raw edges (see below), and then learned to put it on.
I don't have a matching choli (top) or petticoat, but it was fun to get out and play with!

Day Dress - Dry Run

2005-10-11T10:50:00.002-04:00

Ok, ok. The dress looks as if it's done, but there are a few more finishing details that need to be done before I can say it's done. Those things are: hem facing, hemming, collar, and tacking the skirt to the bodice (it prevents the waistband from peaking through where it shouldn't).

Take a look at the gorgeous belgian lace that Anna sent me and tell me - do you think it works for the collar, or is it too nice for this outfit???
Everything is looking pretty good, isn't it?!! I'll be happy to wear this around Gettysburg next time we visit, and I can pick up a matching bonnet. Poor Dave...just what he wants...to load hoops into the trunk of the car, and then upon arrival, walk around with his century-confused wife, while he's in jeans and a t-shirt).

So, here's what I did on Sunday and Monday:
I sewed up the sleeves. The sleeve puffs are gathered pieces of fabric that had to be hand-sewn to the sleeve, and then the sleeve was sewn into the bodice. The sleeve puffs took forever!! I managed to almost finish the skirt (with all those pleats) and pull the bodice together in the time it took me to do those silly sleeves!! They don't look that complicated, do they?
Next up was finishing the boning on the interior of the bodice, using single bias tape to finish the edges (I found some pink colored bias tape, hidden away). Then, I sewed in the hook and eye tape. That process had to be repeated a couple of times before I got the placement just right.

Finally, last night I covered some buttons and sewed them to the bodice. It's almost impossible to see, but here they are:Now where are some kids I can borrow so that me and dress can have an outting together?

Day Dress update

2005-10-08T18:03:00.001-04:00

Every time there's a long weekend, I just can't resist the urge to spend it sewing with my favorite costumed dramas on in the background. I made a lot of progress today. I whip stitched the pleats of the skirt into the waist band, and then added the hooks and eyes. Since I can't hem the gown by myself, I can't say the skirt is actually finished yet. It will still need to have the hem facing sewn in as well. Check out the litte knife pleats!
Next, I moved on to assembling the bodice. I sewed the lining and gown fabric together (this is called flat lining), added the darts on each side, and sewed in some of the boning. It got a bit late, so I'll finish the boning and sleeves tomorrow. I hadn't realized that I'd run out of bias tape, so I'm stuck on finishing the edges of the gown. I think I'm impatient enough that I'll try and make my own bias tape tomorrow instead of waiting the two weeks it would take to order it.
I'll say it again: I love this pattern. Look at how nice the fit is!

Day Dress, Take Two

2005-10-06T16:24:00.001-04:00

Happiness is a pattern that fits properly, and comes with good instructions!

For those of you who may not remember where I we last left this project, you can read about my frustrations here. I am now using a new-release Simplicity pattern, and so far it's working very smoothly. I already fitted the bodice muslin, and so far I haven't had to make any alterations. I do think the shoulders will probably have to be altered: look at where the edge of the bodice hits my arm. Although civil war shoulder seams were much wider then the actual shoulders, I think half way down the arm is pushing it. Believe it or not, I think the other evil pattern had a better cut at the shoulders. Oh well. The only perfect pattern is the one you draft for yourself, and since I don't know how to do that, the Simplicty pattern will have to work.

Instead of making up the bodice first (which is what I normally do), I decided to make the skirt so that I could fit the bodice over the hoops, petticoat, and skirt, to be extra sure of the fit.

I'm using a very simple cotton print fabric. The color shows up very nicely in this picture, where I was trying to show the knife pleats that I've been working on at the waist band of the skirt. I'm currently in the process of whip-stiching the pleats to the waist band. I'm using tiny stitches, so it might take a few movie sittings.

Fairy Wings

2005-09-22T10:58:00.001-04:00

The little flower fairy dress is now 100% complete. Here are the wings, made out of wrapping paper. They sort of stuck out at a nicer angle when they showed them on the pattern envelope, but since I didn't want to string wire through them (3 year old child running around with protruding wires just didn't seem to be a wise idea) this will have to do.

I promise to get pictures of the adorable fairy herself, but I'm waiting to deliver the costume until we're closer to Halloween. Reason #1 is if I were a 3 year old girl, I would put this on and never want to take it off until NEXT Halloween. Reason #2 is I don't want it to get out around the office that I'm sewing Halloween costumes. While I would be willing to hire out, I don't think most people would want to actually pay my fee (whatever that would be) on top of an already healthy-sized fabric/pattern bill.

Anyway, I don't think my next project will be the Tudor dress. As much as I would like it to be, I am, alas, without a fabric budget this month. Since my mother managed to snag a new civil war pattern (top left) for me during JoAnn's 99 cent Simplicity pattern sale, I think I'll try to pick up the civil war day dress project again. The fabric is ready to go, and all I would need is to find some cotton muslin/lining material wich is very inexpensive.

Bippity, Boppity, Boo!

2005-09-05T10:26:00.001-04:00

What happens when one has entirely too much time on one's hands?? You finish the project that was suppose to keep you entertained for the next month in one weekend. Wrapping paper wings still to come, though.

One of the biggest challenges on this project was dealing with the various fabrics I had purchased. The sequins on the purple fabric have been glued on. Every time the needle ran through a sequin, some glue residue would coat the the needle. Then the thread would start sticking to the needle, and would break. This sometimes happened every 3 inches. It drove me crazy. Below is the leaf collar: this process involved several broken thread crises.
The nice pinkish fabric and the green organza would ravel if you looked at them funny. A lot of the edges in this costume were left raw and were not finished...which caused problems. I solved this by using fray check.

Another source of frustration was attaching the skirt to the bodice. The skirt is several layers. First, you attach 10 petals to the bodice, and it looks like this:

After this, you cut three ENORMOUS skirt panels - a good two times taller then I am for a child-sized dress. Then I did the same with purple tuile. Then, I sewed the skirt and tuile together, and gathered it to fit the bodice. There was so much fabric, I had to gather it up as much as possbile for it to fit. Then there was the problem of attaching this massive skirt to the waistline. This picture tries to give you an idea of big it was: I had a hard time getting the fabric to fit under the sewing machine foot.

I think my favorite part of the costume is the adorable little flower petals hat, complete with a stem. It went together without a fuss, and I think is should look absolutely adorable!

Fairy update

2005-09-04T12:18:00.001-04:00

I've been having fun sewing some over the long weekend. It gives me time to finish the project...and keeps me from getting bored as well.

I finished the small jumper/panties set that goes underneath the almost transparent fairy costume. I went ahead and then started on the bodice and sash. Since I got to see the little girl on Friday night, I took the jumper and tried it on to make sure I had the right size. It was a great fit, and she seemed to really like it, or at least I assume she liked it since she didn't want to take it off.

Sugar, Spice...and Fairy Dust

2005-08-30T12:09:00.001-04:00

A great recipe for a little girl's first Halloween costume. I am still without a sewing budget, so I'm finding other ways of distracting myself. Like making other people's costumes!

A couple I work with has an adorable little girl that will be celebrating her first Halloween. I'm making her a little flower fairy costume. I picked up the pattern while I was at home, and went to the $2 a yard bargain bin and found some great fabric! The fun sparkly fabric is the kind of stuff I would never normally work with as a historical costumer, so this is a fun project for me.

Pictures of Gown

2005-08-16T14:04:00.001-04:00

Here's the finished product!! If you want to compare it to the inspiration, click here.

Robe Francaise Complete!

2005-08-14T15:29:00.001-04:00

My Robe Francaise is now 100% complete, and I even had time to make a little pinner cap for my hair today. Yesterday, Katie helped me pin up my hem and attach a pleated flounce to my underskirt.

We then spent lots of time, cutting, pinking, sewing, and gathering ruffles and ruching for the dress. My first attempt at decorating the dress did not come out the way I wanted, so I started again today. To the left are pictures of my trim options.

Below are the finished underskirt and sleeve trim.

And while I realize this isn't the greatest of pictures (the sun had long gone down when I finished sewing), here is a picture of the final product.

I'm desperate to go outside in good light and have some pictures taken with me actually wearing the dress...but Katie left this morning, so I don't have anyone to take picutres of me. Rotten timing. I know.

Unfortunatley, since I'm out of muslin, and I'm currently paying off next week's vacation, there isn't any fabric money this month. I also don't have any more projects sitting around waiting to be started (other then the evil civil war dress that is on hold until Simplicity has a $1 sale and I can get a new pattern), so I imagine there isn't going to be much sewing for me to post about in the next few months. Just lots of dreaming and planning.

Plotting!!

2005-08-10T16:18:00.001-04:00

Hi All!!! Well, I haven't been sewing very much lately. I must admit that I have been distracted by visitors and traveling about. I haven't felt very inspired to finish trimming my 18th century gown, and the thought of working on my civil war gown with the horrible pattern I have is depressing.

So....

I'm planning my next project!! I want to make a Tudor gown (this was the time of Henry VIII and his six wives). I already have the pattern and have selected the fabric I want to use. I'm using a great red brocade, with gold brocade undersleeves and underskit:

For the oversleeves, I'll use a matching deep red velvet. Now I just have to save up the money for the fabulous fabric.

I'll need to make a linen shift to go underneath the gown: the puffy sleeves of the shift are pulled through the slashings of the sleeves to show through. If I have the patience, I could also do blackwork (or spanish embroidery) to complete the look of the shift. I have no clue where to get the pattern for the chemise, and would like to avoid purchasing another pattern, but the well known elizabeth 'smock' generator doesn't have the required puffy sleeves. I'm planning on trying to use my 18th century stays instead of making yet another corset, and I've already got a set of farthingales (aka hoops from the time period).

For accessories: I'm going to make a french hood to go with the dress, and I've also found a great place to purchase necklaces/girdles/and billaments for the dress called Sapphire and Sage.

Nips and Tucks

2005-07-19T15:56:00.001-04:00

Just doing a bit more house-keeping while I have down time. Today, I shortened my fully boned 18th century corset so that it will be more comfortable. It provides a bit more of a firm conical shape then the blue satin corset that I've been using to fit my Robe Francaise. It was always too long after I finished it, so I opened up the top bias tape, measured down 1.5 inches, and then just cut the excess off and rebound it. I can't actually lace myself into this corset, but it looks like it's going to fit much better. You can see the original fit here.

Trimmed Stomacher

2005-07-18T16:07:00.001-04:00

I finished trimming my 18th century stomacher tonight. I sewed on some fine lace, and the attached ruching in a 3 tiered figure eight. 4 pinwheels then decorate a few remaining spots on the dress. I need a second opinion: should I add on any more pinwheels? I see two spots that could be covered up, but I don't want to overdo the trim. So far I like the overall effect, though I think I would be happier if the last tier of the figure eight weren't so circle like...

What do you all think?

The stomacher trim was inspired by this original garment.